2004

2/14/04: Reed's with Marc and Matt S.
A nice day for climbing in the sun. We did an uneventful ascent of the first two pitches of Reed's Direct. I had to trot out the old story of leading the first pitch with hexes (#9, #10, and #11) back in the old days. Turned out to be best to lead Bong's Away Left (5.8) to get the rope up on Bong's Away Center (10a ow). I nearly got this on TR but my knee got stuck! Marc got Stone Groove (10b), settling an old score. Somehow I wound up trying to lead the new "mid-5.11" face to the left. Did manage to drag myself to the anchors after many attempts at the crux reach to a very thin edge. No one else was tall enough (or dumb enough) to attempt the long stretch I eventually used. A later inspection of a more modern guide: 11d.

3/6/04: Hotline with Marc C.
Note to self. Below 250 cfs at Pohono Bridge, the river can be crossed with a few mighty leaps down by the Monster Boulder. If the flow is higher - pretty dicey. Also, expect the flow to increase during the day. We took a favorite excursion, up 4 pitches of Hotline (10c, 5.10 A1, 10b, 5.9 for us). Almost empty at the Cookie and in the Valley in general. We also TRed the final 60' of Fatal Mistake (11a) and Marc had a go on TR on the final pitch of Pink Dream (10a++, bewildering). Just enough light and leg strength to make the crossing back. Grins like we got away with something.

4/3/04: Solo in the Mojo Tooth area
A day for solo TR laps. 4 on Highway Star (10a), until I got it "right." Then 1 on Grape Nuts (5.9, really good), 3 on Euellogy (10a), 2 on Mighty Crunchy (10d or 11a). I was getting a little worn. I tried Yankee Clipper (11b) but weighted the line many times.

4/10/04: Northeast Buttress, Higher Cathedral Rock (IV, 5.9), with Marc C.
Early season, perfect conditions. I found the route fairly demanding, especially the squeeze chimney on p7 and following Marc on p10/11 (which we did as one 240' pitch by moving together some). Actually, Marc climbed past the belay. Must have really been enjoying the wide stuff. Summited with enough time to bag the true summit of the formation. Pretty rewarding dangling our feet over the near-virgin (and mostly hidden) N. face.

4/17/04: Table Mountain with Marc C.
Rain and snow (!) in Yosemite so we turned back at Buck Meadows and went out to Table Mountain. We both led Repo Man (10d) at the Fissures as a warm up. We both led Luminous (11b) as well. No chalk on the hidden hold on the left that simplifies the crux. Marc led up Structural (11c), doing the slab climbing the scary, more direct way and working on the steep climbing higher up. I got a TR ascent, barely. Did manage to figure out the shoulder opposition stem rest that makes it easier. Marc was close on TR. Very strenuous, this one. On Stacked Deck (11c/d), I now seem to have the initial roof under control but run out of strength up high. Also tried the 12a to the right. When the beta is "mega Gaston" perhaps it is time to go home.

5/1/04: Potter's with Marc, Dave H., and Johanna
Watching some old dudes attempt to climb was not as exciting to Hanna (age 3.75) as watching Sasha the dog dig up a tree stump in search of smelly stuff. Dave led Hell Niño (10a), Marc got Hope on a Rope (10c, impressive), and non-leaders rode the top rope. I had to lead Scratchy (10c) to back up my previous downrating of it to "10b, max." Didn't crater in front of my daughter - I guess my grade stands. Marc nearly got Itchy (11a) on lead - I blame a layer of dust on some key smearing dishes near the top. Took advantage of Hanna' s nap to pull a few steep problems up at "Pump Rock" before she woke up and demanded to go to Katie's house.

5/8/04: Hammer Dome with Dave H. and Bart
Dave and Bart were surprised to see me emerge from the talus at 9:30 am but allowed me to join their party. We went all the way up the Smoke Screen slab (III: 10a, 10c, 10a, 10b thin, 10a, 10a). My partners indulged me by giving me the 4th pitch (the R hand of the twins that form the Gemini Cracks) and the last one, which featured a 5.9 (R) move with a tiny alien for pro. Over at the right hand side of the formation, Dave led P1 of Sea of Holes (10a, mostly knobs, actually). I got a little ways up P2 but encountered wet rock. We finished so early that I had a chance to check out the dam and reservoir. I think I was looking at the water supply for my home.

5/15/04: Bear's Lair with Brad Y., Marc C., and Tom
The berm melted out, allowing access to this nice formation. My untaped lead of Revival was meant to show that it was really only 5.8 but mostly served to open some old wounds. Brad sent me up the nicer 10b approach pitch to Dead and Buried. Then the business (10d in the book). I got fairly high but slumped as soon as real difficulties (like the 1.25" section) began. Riding the TR, it went for both of us but 11a at least is a more realistic grade IMO. Spectacular, though, with a good 30' of slightly overhanging tight hands. The sharp rock ripped through my tape job. On rappel, it was possible to set TRs on both Darkness (11a) and Dirty the First Time (11a). Many laps on these by the team. The report from Marc and Tom from Spun (10c) was that it was sharp and painful for the toes.

6/5/04: Bear's Lair with Brad Y.
Really humbling this trip. With Brad leading the approach pitch and taking the first attempt, I should have done a lot better at Dead and Buried (10d+). Slumped onto pro at about the same point as my on-sight attempt. Brad had a similar experience. Of course, we can both do it on TR. Perhaps it is the quick thrutches between jams that is hard to recreate on the lead. More disappointment on Darkness (11a); I was on the rope well before the stem "rest." All that work rehearsing technique (don't lieback so much) and placements (gold cams in the flared sections are surprisingly good) gone to waste. Brad went back a couple of weeks later and got it.

8/5-8/7/04: Flagstaff and Eldorado Canyon
A business trip to Denver created some opportunities to revisit Boulder and environs. Had made only one return trip in 18 years. Back in the day, I could do only one "named" Flagstaff problem - Pratt's Mantle (V2 in today's language, I believe). It was >90 F and there were a couple of additional decade's worth of polish on the holds but I got it 4th try. Sending it again in another 18 years will be a challenge. Greg B. was on a Wilderness EMT course and unavailable. Hooked up with a friend of his for excursions up Werk Supp (5.9+) and Rewritten (5.8), dodging thunderstorms both times.

8/21-8/22/04: Incredible Hulk with Marc C.
Persevered though a traffic nightmare, 4:30 am start, and long approach to get started on Positive Vibrations (V, 11a) at 9:30 am. Mark ID'ed Peter Croft and a partner working on a new route to the left of PV. I do not think Peter remembered me from our first meeting in Squamish in 1981! We were actually doing pretty well, all free, until the rain and hail started the second time (see picture to right) when I was 1/3 of the way up the crux pitch. Finished it on aid and did a diagonal rappel off a single 1/4" bolt to reach the retreat anchors. Next day was cold and windy, but dry, and we made a reasonably quick ascent of the Red Dihedral (IV, 10b). Sonora locals Aaron B. and Matt S. let us pass low down - thank you. They retreated after the dihedral pitch but returned the next week to complete the route (with a bivy!).

8/28/04: Lost World with Robert B.
Met Robert B. and partner at the Memorial Day boulder and descended into the World, their first trip. Given that, the first pitch of Pangea (18 bolts, 10c, 180') is a must - so we did it. Tom A. and a number of his acquaintance were down there as well. I made a TR attempt at Green Monster (11d/12a); with effort I can reach the crux section just cannot figure out a high probability method of doing it. We had packed down a mountain of gear so I employed it on 5NO6 (10c); seems just as hard as the first time I did it, although I did get a 3.5 friend and a good nut at the start that enables the stance beneath the roof to be reached without excessive fear. This time, I will remember the gear beta; one emphasizes thin hands even though it is primarily a hand crack. And for the crux, in order: yellow TCU, #3 (gold) cam, #1 tech friend. Funny, no one wanted to follow, and I cleaned it on rappel. Finished on the Between Nothingness and Eternity (10b) slab. The appearance of a route to its left makes one self conscious about traversing around at the 3rd and 4th bolts to reduce difficulty. It is more like 11a when climbed directly there, in my opinion.

9/4/04: Lost World with
Brad Y. and Marc C.
Back down to a place that it not much of a secret any more, if it ever was. We spent a lot of time on the Clock Tower. Marc found P1 of Timeless (5.9) pretty exciting with no big gear. The route just left of Between Nothingness... is consensusing at 10b; much easier than its neighbor. Marc made an impressive attempt at the bolted blunt arete still further left. He dispatched several bolts of sustained 5.11, including, in retrospect, the crux, but lowered off just short of easier ground. I tied in and finished the lead. Given the large number of marginal (for me) moves, I was glad of the TR through the crux. Consensus seems to be about 11b; Brad returned later and redpointed it. I would have liked to have made a stronger attempt at Warrior Horseman (11a). I misjudged the pro (hand size, mostly), messed up placing it, and basically lacked any sort of momentum. I swung over to lower off a bolt on the adjacent sport route to retreat. The route is so good; I really ought to summon my best effort next time.

9/19/04: Frankensteins with Aaron B.
Aaron must have formed an ok opinion of me on the Hulk because he agreed to go for a local (for him) cragging day. As we ascended 108, it looked overcast and cold so we made a snap decision to go for a early season trip to Frankenstein. I kept talking up Perfectly Frank (10b) so we went for it. It was a little embarrassing for me when I took 2 tries to find the rap approach anchors - I was blaming the flat lighting and my old glasses prescription. All smiles on the route, though, in spite of the blustery conditions. I took the first -10b seems right for the short thin hands section and perhaps some 10a just before the belay. Aaron took the second - like a baby version of the Hulk Red Dihedral pitch. No liebacking for this man - he used some wide crack techniques, I think, judging by the sounds he made. An independent review of the route has come in from another party - "as good as Gripper." Can't disagree. Finished the day with a quick TR of the finger crack section (10c) of Mr. Ed and a lead back up the the top on the cliff on Root Canal (5.9).

9/26/04: Cal Dome with Marc C.
This time I did not forget my shoes, and we were climbing by 9:30 am. Saved additional time by skipping the first two pitches by substituting a long lead up Sands of Time (this is the original High Time way, I think). Then we were back on with the leaders switched from our last attempt. We both were slowed on the short 10c corner, and I found the 10b traverse pitch spooky due to the pro (units behind a fragile flake) and reminiscent of the undercling pitch on the DNB. The long (50 m) 10b corner is "all-time," like an easier version of the Good Book. I liked the next two (5.9), using long slings to control rope drag. Now at our previous high point, Marc forged on into new ground. Even though he swung on the bolts on both cruxes (10d and "5.11") on the face pitch, it was still an impressive lead. I could barely follow, grabbing the bolts as well. The next pitch features 10d stemming right off the sling belay. I used aid to get the pro in - once this was done, the moves are more reasonable. With light to spare and a big belay ledge for Marc, I started up the long 10d corner. Pretty easy to the first of 2 pins in the topo, then a closed crack and blankness. Standing in a sling clipped to a small HB offset and 6' above the pin, I could not figure it out. Tubing? Never could see a 2nd pin. Lowered off the pin and then down the familiar path to the ground.

10/2/04 Cal Dome with Micha M.
The hidden agenda was to get on top of the Tibetan Towers and TR that 10d lieback pitch but it was not to be. We were maintaining a pretty good pace on Sands of Time (IV, 5.9) - after 5 rope lengths, including the stellar 180' 5.7 finger crack, we were on top of "12 O'Clock High" ledge at 12:30. But to our surprise, a wall of gray swept in from the east and it began to blow pretty hard and rain! We gave it some time but it got worse. One rap down a corner joins Silk Road at the top of the 5.9 pitches and then it is straightforward to reach the deck. 1:30 pm and, of course, the rain stopped. So we marched across the crag and did the crack pitches on Wall of the Worlds (10c, 10c traverse, 10a corner, 5.9 corner). When done as a 180' pitch, P1 reminds me of Lunatic Fringe, with a few 5.10 sections and a thin hands crux. Had to move quickly on the 200' 5.9 corner to finish before the rain began again. A day with the pitch count of a grade IV without the commitment.
Nature notes. A bobcat scurried purposely across the road on the descent into the canyon. All ledges were covered with feathers and bird body parts from peregrine meals.

10/9/04: Frankensteins with Matt S.
On still another cold and windy day, Matt S. and I ticked most of the routes on the S. Face. Maybe I should have worn my "serious" shoes (Vectors) as I nearly skidded off P1 of Dinosaurs (5.9). The second pitch is actually pretty wild and airy (10b, Matt led). I led Orson Welles P1 (11a, thin). Getting into and exiting the crack are the difficult bits, reminds one of Joshua Tree (bring RPs and small nuts). The next pitch (10b or 10c) is cool, with traversing moves over space that are more difficult than they look. It is possible to lower down Wall of the Worlds (11b, "slick dihedral") from the end of Orson Welles. Even on TR it was a demanding route, featuring sustained tubing and a number of 5.11 stemming sections. I have no idea how one would get gear. For most of its length, the crack is either very thin and parallel-sided, closed, or filled with grass. Nibbler Arete is a beautiful but serious route. Matt did a nice job of handling the 10b stemming and the 20' 5.9 runout to the arete anchors. I led up to the top - only 4 bolts in a knobby and exposed 150' but it felt like 5.8, max, and mostly much easier. The rain was fast approaching but I just managed to rap our "convenience" line and TR back up Made in the Shade (mostly 5.4 with one 5.9 move) before it hit. Enjoyed a rainbow and other nice forest sights on the way out.

10/16/04: Braille Book area, Higher Cathedral Rock, Yosemite with Matt S.
Last week Matt got all the 5.10 leads; this time the split was more equitable. We hiked high up the Spires gully to see if some of the new routes I put up with Clint are getting any traffic. No evidence of a prior ascent this year of Sight Reader (3 pitches, 10b). I think P2 is a heady on-sight. There of lots of steep 5.9, and it is by no means obvious how one is going to get gear. But there is always a good hold or two if one searches around. Matt took P3 - more bolts on this pitch and an identifiable crux move. The smoke from the Hetch Hetchy fire slowly cleared so that we could more fully enjoy the good views of the Higher Spire. Matt took the first 11a pitch of Remain in Light, powering through the overhanging crux with no beta (and a different sequence than me). This route has seen traffic - we scored a bleached quick draw off bolt #3 of P2 and there was a fixed biner at the P2 belay (we removed the bleached rappel slings and installed links). I led P3 (also 11a), finding the flakes a little fragile but solid enough. A previous party had reported pulling off a big hold 2/3 of the way up. Indeed, a fragile "tunnel" used on the FA was gone, but it goes fine on smaller holds. Nice overhanging and climactic finish. Matt took the 5.8 P4 just so we could pull some more jugs. It is possible to rappel the whole route with a single 60 m line. By the time we descended to the Valley floor, the smoke had mostly cleared so that headlamps on the Captain were visible. Keeping my streak of rainy October climbing days alive, hard rain greeted me in Tracy on the drive home.
Postscript: little did we know as we watched the headlamps glinting up on El Cap that a deadly winter storm was about to engulf them...

11/20/0: Sugarloaf, with Bob P.
I boldly announced to Christine: "I am going climbing this Saturday with my old college friend - then we are going to party like rock stars at Chris's house in South Lake." Permission was granted without batting an eye. She knows me too well. Upon emerging from the car in the turnout off US 50, we were greeted by a snarling dog that belonged to another party. Interesting wake up call and a big contrast to the less well-traveled areas I had been frequenting. It was warm in the sun, with ashes from the recent wildfire being stirred up by the wind. Pony Express P1 (5.9) was a nice warmup. Had to lunge to get past the first bolt on Bollee Gold but the rest of P1 (10b) seems more probable now that I have done it a few times. We had planned on going for the Fracture, but once out of the sun and with an intensifying wind, it was like a meat locker over there. So back to the sun and up to Hyperspace (10b), which I had not done before. It has interesting moves working off a very thin flake - pretty nice. A TR on an arete to the right (10c) was the finish of our climbing day. Watched a party on the Man Who Fell to Earth. The direct crack start looked good, but the leader did not seem very happy with the upper part of the route. And the party? I did fall short of my stated goal, but I think we did not embarrass ourselves too much and after a improvised bivy in the back yard and a 6 am start the next day, we were back in Berkeley for a waffle breakfast with the family.