2005

1/22/05 and 2/26/05: Glacier Point Skiing
Maybe it is the combination of the big snow year and the fact that I have my own (used) skis now, but I did more ski touring this year than I have since Colorado 20 years ago. The first Glacier Point trip was solo. Bivied on an icy Forest Service road to get an early start and started out on the groomed Glacier Point Road at 9 am. The conditions were fast, and I, made Glacier Point (18 km) by a little after noon. I enjoyed the usual spectacular views of Half Dome, Watkins, et al. On the way back, I could not resist tacking on the trip out to Dewey Point (6 km round trip). Actually, the last part of this trail has some steep sections and trees, challenging skiing. But the view, looking straight down at the summit of the Leaning Tower and over to El Cap was well worth it. When I got back to the car, there was still a little light left. Just as I was thinking to myself that I still had a few more hours of propulsion left in me, a back spasm as I was bending over to remove my boots brought me back to reality.
Somehow I had convinced myself that Sean M. and I used to ski together "back in the day" in Colorado. Actually, I had never went with him. Another nice day and 9 am start. We skied the Old Glacier Point Road and then up into Westfall Meadows - peaceful and quiet. The post-lunch trip out to Dewey Point was more of a scene, with snowshoes outnumbering skis. Conditions were fairly challenging, but we both made it out there and enjoyed the view. Back spasms (lesser in intensity) again back at the car. .

3/12/05: Pat and Jack and the Watchtower with Aaron B.
The plan to "warm up" on Knob Job (10b) worked out; we both led it without a major epic. However, I underestimated Sherrie's Crack (10c) and managed to rip big chunks of skin off both index fingers and take a 10' fall before finishing my lead of it. I had remembered it (from 14 years ago) as a "couple of thin moves, not so bad"! Best to to return to more familiar ground. I did remember correctly the intimidating and steep start of The Thief (10d) and used the rap line to provide extra security there. I also added a couple of pieces to the rack I had recorded in my guidebook to avoid a self-sandbag situation. Actually, I found the hand crack moves between pods in the middle section of the route fairly grueling and the final 10d thin hands just as I had remembered it, not so bad once the toes can fit it.

3/26/05: One day solo in Joshua Tree
Persevered through hideous LA traffic following a business trip to just make it to Quail Springs Picnic Area, solo a low angle crack, and rig my solo TR setup on Hermeneutic (10c) in fading light. After a bivy out on the BLM-managed dry lake between Joshua Tree and 29 Palms I returned to the "Monument" (as I kept calling it even though it is a park now) and somehow got the idea that I need to do 10 pitches of 5.10 (like a "Hulk" day?). Started out at Hound Rocks with 3 laps each on Tossed Green (10a) and Right Baskerville Crack (10a). I was finding the 4th class up to the top of the rocks to be fairly gripping. And also, somehow my strength did not seem to be increasing as the day progressed (why should it?). I took 2 goes at Semi-Tough (10d+) in Real Hidden Valley. This had been quite a challenge for me in 1987 when it was rated 11a. This time, I could only do the start once and, although I figured out the upper crux finally, could not put it all together. At least I avoided the painful jam that had numbed by ring finger for 2 weeks. I now revisited an old path. After my frustration on Semi-Tough in '87 I announced, as I proposed to go for Martin Quits (10c), that "if I can't climb a 10c finger crack I might as well go home." Fortunately, I was able to lead the route and was therefore able to stay out on the road a few more months. This time, I got it the first time but hung briefly on my second lap. Dripping blood all over my pants, it was one of those rare reflective moments. Like, what was I doing out there in the first place? Time to heed my own words. So, after another night out on the dry lake, I "went home," using a dawn start on Easter Sunday to get me home in time for Johanna's egg hunt.

4/10/05: Arch Rock with Sonora locals
I enjoyed great company on this trip. All parties were good sports about cramming (5, with gear, I did not think this was possible) into my Subaru for a speedy trip from the Rawhide parking lot into the Valley. As others had interesting experiences on the Midterm squeeze, Matt S. and I went for Gripper (10b, 5.9). Should have saved some bigger cams for the last part of the 2nd pitch - a 30' run out on 5.8 ensued. Finally got last pitch of New Dimensions (11a), albeit on TR. Watching Matt, I think I can improve my foot work a lot on this pitch. The ND raps are in a sense superior to Gripper. The stations are a funky flake and a 1/4 inch bolt backed up with a fixed nut, but there is no harassment of other parties. Supplication (10c) is atypical of Arch Rock climbs- e.g. shoulder friction is not required for upward progress. For this reason, it is possibly one of the easier climbs there, despite the grade. I led it and most of the party (Aaron, Matt, Rachel) took a TR lap or two, including me. Others had set up the short 12a finger crack - Rachel got it and Carl was looking fairly strong on it. It looked like tendon injury to me so I passed. I was not at my best; I had some sort of cold, so between climbs, I was stumbling around on flat ground. Strangely, with the rock to steady me, I did not feel so bad while I was actually climbing. All in all, about 1/2 of a "Hulk Day."

4/30/05: Finger Lickin' area with Sonora locals
Same crew as last time minus one, who was going to go "canyoneering"!? Recent rains kept the dust down on the slog up to the cliffs but also had nourished a healthy crop of poison oak. Beginning on the small cliff to the right, the team in various combinations did Jawbone (10a), Snatch Power (10c thin to fun hands), and Petty Larceny (new 11b with a thin and balancy start). Much skidding around by all parties on this last route. For some reason, there are fixed lines on this cliff (to the L of the 11b), on Pinky Paralysis above, and on Finger Lickin' (as we found out when we hiked over there around mid-afternoon). Maybe someone is doing TR laps on these routes. I have a long but sporadic history with Finger Lickin'. Got nowhere on it (following!) in 1987, was able to follow Joe S. on it in the early 90's, and attempted to lead it in 2001 but only got 15' off the deck. Better effort this time. I led up, conserving strength by using all the foot/shoulder opposition opportunities I could find, and got within sight of secure hand jams, but fell off just short of them. There is really little room for error on this one - "how hard can 10d get" - indeed. Following this display, we all took a few TR laps on it. Maybe the point of all this is to make Five and Dime somehow seem easier if I ever get my act together to attempt it again. The arrival of darker clouds and a light rain persuaded us to cut the day short.

5/7/05: Vitamin D with Matt and Marc
It is a longer hike than I had remembered up to Crammin' (10d) but the nearby waterfall made for a great atmosphere. More momentum than last time, but I still cannot put this one together. It seems to be less about the insecure jams as opposed to getting the correct wedging position. Marc joined us and I suggested a tour of 10d (ones I can do, that is). We should not have gotten lost on the hike to Manana, but we did. Matt came within inches of the on-sight but teetered off the final mantle! This one, with two 10d sections, is an all-time favorite for me. Another longer than expected hike got us over to Vanishing Point. The flare at the end of the thin hands was a surprise for Marc, as it has been for many, I presume. I got to TR the 10d thin start to Spiderman in fading light.

6/4/05: Higher Cathedral Spire and Rock with Brad
I had not realized it until Brad pointed it out that we had never climbed together in the Valley, save the time we met on the Salathe in 1989. Fitting, perhaps, that we went for a summit I had not visited since 1980, Higher Cathedral Spire. The East Corner is a Pratt route. The start is reached by traversing R around the corner from the regular route start. The exposure is immediate but not as dramatic as is found on the normal route. I ran the first two pitches together after fretting a bit on some spooky 5.9 liebacking. Pitch 3 is a lovely and steep corner with a hand crack (10a), a nice lead for Brad. On the next pitch, a better way is found to the left of the 5.8 corner in the topo; a bit of 5.9 leads to a hand crack (Pratt would have gone this way). A very short pitch then gains the top. There were two other parties there but, sadly, no summit register that I could find. It might not have been a great idea to combine forces and do a 200' rap; the rope was very difficult to pull. 2 shorter rappels returned us to the notch. There was sufficient time for my agenda, a return visit to Steal This Book. I led the first pitch, doing about as well as last time (the FFA), that is, getting it but with some fretting. Still seems high quality to me. Interesting, too, with uncharacteristically slippery rock for the feet but lovely (but spaced) finger locks. There was no evidence of traffic - must be the hike. Comparing notes with Brad, who followed the pitch, 10c seemed like a fair rating.

6/11-12/05: Birthday weekend with Sonora locals et al.
   I choose the occasion of my 45th birthday to entice a few climbers out to an obscure crag that I had helped develop a few years ago. Matt and Aaron drove up with me and Carl, Rachel, and Jan from Davis met us at the crag. One disadvantage of the place is that there are no "warm-up" routes. Most chose the strenuous 11a hand traverse problem as their first climb - many "flash pumps" were dispensed. Matt led the 10d corner and all of us followed. I pulled a leg muscle showing off how I manage the crux with wide stems. Down on the lower wall, Aaron led Hey Daddy-O (10c). He looked pretty happy motoring up the 5.9 hands section that follows the crux. I set up the 5.11 thin direct start (Down in the Basement); the spider and cobweb factor declined with each TR ascent. Rachel (as expected) and Jan were basically hiking the thing. Others (like myself) had to grunt to a greater or lesser extent. Ice cream treats finished off our day.
   I felt like I still had a bit of climbing left in me, so I stayed at Brad's house. A party from SF arrived on Sunday morning and we drove the 2nd Quarry. There was a large party there already (including a poodle!)- I recognized Rob B. (aka "mungeclimber" on-line). I hooked up for a bit of easy bolt clipping with Alan and Vahn (Sole Food, 10a, and Prime Rib,10b, both familiar territory for me). Also got a TR lap on the short hand crack of Original Skin (10d). I left in mid-afternoon so that I could finish the day with a BBQ at home.

6/25/05: Book of Job with Matt S.
Armed with prior knowledge and a rack augmented with extra large cams and medium nuts, this route (III, 10b) was not quite the "religious experience" as my first time up it, but challenging in a uniquely burly way, nonetheless. Long June days and the fact that the route, hidden in a deep cleft to the right of the Braille Book, will never see the sun make an early start unnecessary. Matt did me a favor by going 10' past the P1 belay, saving me from having to lead an awkward 5.10 section. Still, the overhanging balance of P2, was plenty challenging. Stemming out onto to the featured left wall, combined with good use of the spaced hand (and occasional fist) jams, is the key to this 10b pitch. P3 continues the theme - unrelentingly physical. I was happy to sort of finesse some wide stemming to pass a wide section, but really had to battle through a tight squeeze higher up. Spent, I belayed a little short giving Matt the pleasure of leading a 5.10 overhanging hands section and then the rest of P4. P5 is really pretty nice. There is a 5.10 overhanging finger crack/corner right off the belay - with the extra medium nuts on the rack, this was much less intimidating than last time. The final exit corner is a little dirty and involves grappling with a bush at its end. Rappelling down and the hike out used up our available daylight. Provided I can find partners, perhaps I should make this route a solstice tradition. I drew a topo of it and added to my guides page in case I ever do this.

7/16-7/17/05, Lost World and 2nd Quarry, Sonora locals
The idea was to attempt a number of challenging crack routes in the Lost World to prepare mentally and physically for an upcoming Needles trip. Having watched Brad previously on Let It Be Union (10a) I knew that two 4.5 cams were useful. The crack is obviously wide but no real ow moves are required - it goes mostly on stemming and, if it ever gets clean, will be a nice route. Matt led the short hand crack, Cock the Hammer (10c in guide but more like 10b) to continue the sequence. Uncharacteristically, I had no beta for Here on the Inside (11a). It appears rather dark and ominous, being located deep in a cave to the R of Pangea. I encountered some wet spots in the P1 5.7 chimney, but nothing too unpleasant. The second pitch turned out only to be wet at the start. It is slightly off-vertical and follows a discontinuous crack for 60'. Long reaches between locks, subtle edges for the feet, and pro that is good but non-obvious to get make it a rather technical lead, like something in Eldorado. But, for all that, probably not 11a. Finally, I had to make another attempt on Warrior Horsemen (real 11a). Rachel got the redpoint on Green Monster. Many (Matt, Aaron, Rachel, myself) rode the TR on Warrior.
Messed around a little on Sunday with Matt and Andreana at the 2nd Quarry. We climbed the usual mellow face routes (Sole Food, Prime Rib) before the heat drove us into the cool of the "Meat Locker."

7/22-7/26/05, Needles with Matt, Rachel, and Carl
This was an all-time great trip. It had been years since I had taken a trip of this length (5 days) and my car camping skill, never strong, were woefully weak. Fortunately, the rest of the party (especially Carl from his river guiding experience) were excellent at it, and we had great food and cold beverages every night at our trailhead camp.
The climbing approach was very simple - see a classic line and climb it. It was the first trip for nearly all in the party so we concentrated on classics. Like the first day when Matt and I did Airy Interlude (10a, 5.9) and Thin Ice (10b, 5.9). Rachel showed up at the saddle in late afternoon, and we took a quick trip up Igor Unchained (5.9). It actually was not a big surprise to see Clint back at the campground. I had forgotten but he remembered that we had done the Entity (5.9, 10c, 10c) in the old days. So Matt and I climbed it the next day, gaining what beta could about the Spook Book by watching a strong party from Colorado do it (their summary: "harder than Moratorium"). There were some threatening clouds late in the afternoon; Rachel and I raced over to Charlatan and got in a TR of the last pitch of Spooky (10a). Matt and I rested on Sunday, spending the day swimming, visiting the Ponderosa Lodge, and napping on top of Dome Rock. Monday was to be my day for Spook Book, but I could not bring myself to do the scary mantle 20' up just below the first bolt. We settled for a run up Inner Sanctum (5.9R, 5.8, 5.8). A modern guidebook would have been helpful, but Matt and I did eventually find our way up The Howling (5.9, 10a) to the summit of the Warlock. Riding on a wave of euphoria, on our last day Matt and I squeezed in an ascent of Fancy Free (5.9, 5.10, 5.8, 5.9) and the Lady of the Needles pinnacle (5.8) on Charlatan before we hiked out at midday and headed for home.

8/6/05, Bear's Lair, Matt and Andreana
The idea was to use fitness gained from my recent Needles trip to send all the testpieces at the crag (Darkness, Dirty..., and Dead and Buried). Oh well. While warming up on Revival (5.9), I found I could tunnel behind a flake and reach the Darkness (11a) anchors. I took probably my 5th TR trip up this route, rehearsing the gear placements. Not sure how I can be more ready. On lead, I burned a lot of energy in dicey stems to get the gear in, but made it to the halfway mark. But I started the flared jamming too early and oozed out. Darn! At least after one rest point, I was able to push through to the anchors. The energetic laybacking style employed by Andreana (<6 months climbing experience) was an interesting counterpoint to my more plodding approach. A diagonal rappel allowed me to set pro above the 11a face start of Dirty the First Time. Both Matt and I made lead attempts. Matt actually got fairly high in the leaning hand crack before succumbing. I messed up relatively low and also had to rest higher up. It is a real technique and endurance challenge up there - I have to dispute the 10c rating, at least for me. Andreana found that martial arts skills translate less well to thin face than they do to power liebacking.
Spent, we hiked out. Better luck for the team later, though. Turns out that two-cycle mixture can be used as charcoal starter, but not without some excitement.

8/20/05, Burst Rock with Brad
The coarse rock and elevation (close to 9,000') make it a almost plausible substitute for Tuolumne Meadows. We rapped the full 190' rappel to the talus so we could make the first bottom to top ascent of the steep buttress at the right side of the East Face (p. 44 guidebook, "huge face with many large roofs"). The new ground was a 20' 5.8 pitch in a little corner to pedestal, led by Brad. Brad then led the first pitch (5.9 hand to 10a stemming) of "Thrust and Throb," which Greg, Matt, and I had put in a few years ago. Next, I led up an easy corner (5.8) to a thin traverse (10d, similar to P2 of Outer Limits), completing the FA of "Up and Over," which I had cleaned out and TRed last year. Finally, we rapped back down to the ledge, and Brad sent P2 of Thrust and Throb, an intimidating and overhanging 10c hand crack. We then moved over to the South Face and both led Stinger (10a face) and TRed Fracture Clinic (11b overhanging hands). On the way out, I convinced Brad to give me a TR on the Mousetrap (11c) and had a nice time skidding around on it.

8/26/05, Positive Vibrations (V, 11a), Incredible Hulk, with Marc
After getting rained off last year, Marc and I vowed that we would be back. After many weeks of balancing thunderstorm forecasts and work schedules, we developed a return date and a plan. "One day, all out."
With lighter loads we were able to start an hour earlier than last time, about 8:30 am. For variety, we switched the pitch order and I took the odd pitches this time. We made pretty good time initially, about an hour a pitch and all free (except for some finger thawing points on P1) to the top of p5. At this point, the route came into sun (good) but the wind started up (not as good). On P6, Marc got the spooky 10c stemming and the blind undercling around the roof. But this pitch, like the route in general, is unrelenting. Marc "went for it" on some off-balance 10d and fell - it was a long one due to the circuitous nature of the pitch, and Marc's rear hit some things on the way down. I think he was hurting, but he "toughed it out" and pressed on to the optional intermediate belay (our high point last time). I took the 2nd half of the pitch (11a face crux) and in the interests of time grabbed some gear and sort of half freed it. The upper pitches of the route, new for us, were fantastic. I do not think they are harder than pitches lower down but they started to seem that way as we began to tire and climb more slowly. Marc joined me on the summit ridge at just after 7 pm. We spent most of the remaining daylight looking unsuccessfully for the rap anchors at the top of the Venturi Effect (or for any anchors that looked promising). In retrospect, they may have been 100' below us on that long ledge. In any case at dusk we decided reluctantly to go the summit and do the normal descent. This turned out to take a lot longer than I expected. We roped the 3 unpleasant traversing pitches to the base of the 5.8 chimney. It was actually not too bad, particularly compared to later events, to lead this by headlamp. On top, I had sufficient energy to scramble up and sign the summit register (9:30 PM). Last time, in light, the hike down the ridge to the rap anchors seemed short and straightforward. This time, it seemed to take forever, and we wound up doing a 200' rappel to the saddle. 12:30 am. And, of course, we took a wrong turn in the descent gully (should have paid attention to that big cairn) - more rappels. At 2 am, after nearly 18 hours in rock shoes, we reached the packs. The hike out took longer than coming in, and we had the next morning's sunlight for the stream crossing. Back at Twin Lakes at 7 am - overall a grueling 26.5 hour car to car time.

9/17/05, 3rd Pillar Mt. Dana(IV, 10b), with Rachel
One more Sierra route. After our grueling experience on the Hulk it is difficult to say why this thought came to dominate my mind. But it did. And time was really running out for 2005. The first sign for Rachel and me ought to have been the other climber who appeared at dawn at the Tioga Lake turnout. Rolled out of his Prius, ice tools in hand, headed for the Dana couloir. "Berg heil!" The icy temperatures seemed to favor his approach. The hike in was straightforward, guided by my GPS coordinates. My mantra, half a Hulk day, both in terms of approach and the route. At 8:30 am at the summit it was windy and cold but sunny. I should have read the approach information more closely. The gully just N of the pillar is not the way to go. Years ago, Bridwell related how near the summit of Cerro Torre he had placed cams between ice and rock to get onto the summit mushroom. Finally, I got to employ this tactic to lend a semblance of safety to our half rappel/half down climb descent down the gully. Good news at the bottom, though. Rachel spied booty, a wind shell in my size. Our delay on the descent allowed a party of 3 to get ahead of us. But a parallel variation for pitches 2 and 3 kept us apart. Initially, we basked in sun and set a decent pace. High on P3, a thin and awkward section slowed me and I belayed short. On second go it was no better and I wound out running it out above a string of marginal gear. Close, this one.. We waited about an hour for the other party to get ahead and resumed. The last pitch is everything that anyone has said about it. My little addition. The last 50' were like CCK in the Gunks. By this point, Rachel and I were moving again and no longer cold. As I mantled onto the summit, positive thoughts flooded my mind. Maybe this was the idea all along. Rachel soon joined me. The hike out, in good light, was like a walk in the park compared to the Hulk. And, of course, more ice climbers back at the parking lot. For every thing, there is a season - how special to see these seasons change.

10/22/05, East Buttress, El Cap, with Matt
It was a perfect day for this classic and moderate grade IV. On the hike out, I encountered a flock of mountain quail and a couple in a portaledge anchored just inches off the deck. I considered both to be good omens. The bolt is gone on the 2nd, crux pitch. Interestingly, it make the move easier - fixed nut protection high in the crack to the left gets the leader in the right position and gives him/her an effective top rope for the slippery traverse moves. As a result, I freed this move (10b) for the first time ever. Matt and I kept up a steady pace, just drinking it all in. There appeared to be very few parties on the Big Stone -- maybe the tragic winter storm that occurred last year at this time was spooking the big wall aspirants. On pitches 5 and 6, I climbed a more direct line on the blunt arete rather than in the grassy appearing crack in the "gully," adding some additional 5.9(R) to the equation. The next two pitches (5.9) were basically consistent with my memory from my last experience with them in 1987 - kind of insecure and hard for the grade. And the face climbing on the knobby headwall - glorious, just as I had remembered. Due to some communication issues, we had 5 rolls of tape in the pack but only one liter of water! So we were a little thirsty at the top. Descending the fixed lines on the East Ledges, we met a party multinational jugging up. The address of Thomas Huber was written in large letters on one of the packs, must have been setting up for one of the free ascents that was to transpire in the coming days.

11/5/05, Camp IV bouldering, with Johanna
Johanna (age 5) was my companion for this little Yosemite adventure. We began the day with a recon of the Salathe base, encountering a squirrel and a party on Moby Dick. Johanna was able to convey to the 2 guys hiking up with gear and a big haul bag that there were parties on the Zodiac and E. Buttress but none on their intended route, the Salathe (n.b., I hope those guy made it). Around noon, we began hiking up the Falls trail and made it to the overlook at the approximate level of the top of the Lower Falls. We made good time on the descent, allowing time for my part of the plan, revisiting the Camp IV bouldering circuit after a 25 year hiatus. I had about as much success this time as in the old days, that is not much. So I now know the name, "Chapman Overhang," of something that I tried repeatedly in 1980 but I still cannot do now. The modern rating, V1, is a humbling concept. Johanna was starting to get impatient with me but brightened after she found a large, rotten mushroom. And her spirits really picked up when a couple of other boulderers took an interest in her "Hello Kitty" backpack. I was able to utilize their pad and beta to make some semiserious goes at the "Donini Problem." I did not get it but began to realize for the first time how outdoor bouldering really works.

11/12/05, Cookie, with Paul B.
This year, perfect fall weather extended well into November. I wish I could have gotten out more often. Paul had just come off a 15 hour drive back from Moab and had climbed the previous day at the Church Bowl but agreed to accompany me anyway. I owe him. We were the first party to the cliff and had our choice of classic routes. So we did Catchy (10c) to Catchy Corner (11a) in the sun and Bev's (10a) to Wheat Thin (10c) in the more shady afternoon. From Bev's, I had a good view of a team attempting to redpoint Red Zinger. Also got one TR investigation of Butterballs. There were probably 60 days as perfect for climbing this autumn season - I was happy just to get one.