Donner Summit, 8/11/00
Gavin G.

Gavin's idea was an excellent one. Just take a day off from work to do the trip, leaving the whole weekend for our fatherly duties. It took some maneuvering and, for Gavin, an hour or two on the cell phone on I-80 to push work away, but it all worked out and 10:30 am found us at a relatively deserted Snowshed Wall. Gavin does not believe in warming up and took a go at Aerial (11b arete). He worked quite hard at the crux move at the second bolt and eventually surprised himself and got it. This left the challenge of the tricky 10+ climbing past the final 3 bolts to the top. After rests at each of them, Gavin scratched his way to the belay, quite pleased with himself. Two hours for 60' - that's a foot every two minutes, I thought. On the other hand, it did give me time to watch the preparations being made for the next day's motorcycle races and to quell my fears about my route. I explained to the guys at the base of Bottomless-Topless the concept behind the route name. The Peter Principle states that in business, personnel are promoted until they reach a position in which they are incompetent. The obvious corollary: all corporate management is incompetent. I then went on to prove that the name of the climb was apt. 60' of 5.9 gains a stance below the most overhanging part of the route. I had a lot going for me - decent fitness, much previous practice on the route years ago, and, after I dispatched the initial hand jam section, a #1 friend at my waist. I think I showed decent commitment by, at full extension, sinking two fingers into the sloping bottom section of the target pod. This proved to be my personal incompetence point. I desperately cut both feet loose and attempted to slot my left into a shallow toe slot at knee level. The rope got in the way of my foot, and ejection soon followed. So close! After resting and curses, I solved the sequence and set up the TR for Gavin. He worked his way up and engaged the crux but did not quite reach the pod. All this burned some time, so we headed over to the now-shady Space Wall. Gavin decided to save Made in Japan for another day. I announced I was going to "warm up" for Neanderthal Dudes (11d) by leading Kwijiwabo. I was under the impression that this latter route was 10d. However, I remembered that Jack Mendendez had had a hard time on it in 1990, taking some awkward falls in the initial groove. This route is very deceptive. The groove appears low angle - in fact, it is overhanging there. Indian Rock bouldering had kept up my one-move power, but my lack of stamina was painfully revealed. After much up and down at the first bolt, I found the right sequence, chinned even with the second bolt, but could not let go to clip. Into space I went, pushing out to avoid clipping the ledge below bolt #1. Next try I got it with an explosive sequence and then wobbled up the groove. Unseen from below, a 30' 75 degree slab with 3 bolts leads to the anchor. Looked like 5.8 to me. Still, I wondered about the bail sling on the initial bolt. I had to climb up and down 4 times to pass that bolt and more 10+ was found higher on the slab. I had been skeptical, but I now agree that this climb earns the star Carville gave it in the new guide (and the upgrade to 11a!). Not a strict redpoint (I did not reclip the first bolt) but a solid effort. Gavin, tips worn thin by his adventure on Aerial, reached his TR high point at the second bolt. I used my 200' line to rig a TR on Neanderthal Dudes. I cannot believe I actually have tried to lead this! Unrelenting 5.11 moves are found as the top (so slowly!) approaches. Many hangs were required at the last two bolts. I did manage to work out the final slab moves - they seem to be technically easier than then moves below the last bolt - if you are fresh (I, of course, was from hanging on the rope!). I took a final TR lap on Kwijiwabo, and then we sprinted down to Donner Lake for a soak and well-deserved liquid refreshment.

A fine day. Here's to Gavin for inspiring me to take a mini-vacation from work and fatherhood.