Lost World, Sonora Pass Highway, 9/22/01, Gavin G.

Ever since I got a copy of Brad Y.'s new Sonora Pass Highway guidebook I had wanted to visit this place. I was not disappointed. Same trailhead as the Bear's Lair, only 2 miles off 108. The guide also describes the approach quite well. The basic idea is to hike east and skirt a large and junky N-facing crag and then descend down into a narrow gorge just above Donnell's Reservoir (4900'). The best climbs lie on the steep E-facing (left) side of the gorge and were in full shade by the time we arrived at about 11:30 am.

The topo of Pangaea (10c, ***) had caught my attention - 2 long pitches with 19 and 16 bolts, respectively. I announced that we would "warm up" on this climb. The 1st pitch takes a long, left-trending, ramp at the right margin of an overhanging wall. I figured I could romp up this thing in about a half an hour, clipping every other bolt. I was so wrong! After about 5 bolts, the climbing becomes quite sustained with numerous 5.10- moves using various sharp and rounded holds. Actually, the rock reminded me of the Braille Book area of Higher Cathedral - dark with incut features - my favorite granite for face climbing. It was quite mentally demanding to do all those moves on this full 180' pitch (10c overall?), and I was pretty worn by the time (> 1 hour) I got to the belay. Gavin followed somewhat faster. The second pitch is lower angle and easier, with some slab moves between dikes (ca. 5.9) and a final pull over a roof using a large incut jug (5.10a I thought). Gavin made quick work of this pitch, too. With some engineering we were able to use a 60m and a 50m rope to make the raps - the second one involves a significant amount of time in space. The first pitch of this climb has to be one of the best face climbs of its grade in California - I cannot think of anything its equal in Tuolumne or elsewhere.

The Peaceful Warrior corner (10d, 10c, ***) defines the left margin of the overhanging wall. The first 80' pitch looks hard and is. The right wall overhangs and there are two 8' sections where the crack clearly becomes a seam. I racked up with a big rack of cams and gave it a go. I was able to solve a 5.10 stemming section down low but the first seam stopped me. My attempts to find a stem that would work just wound up sending my lower back into spasms. I pulled up on some marginal TCUs on the left wall and climbed up to the stance below the second blank section. This one seemed easier but I wound up aiding it as well. This is a challenging route. I lowered off and Gavin tied onto the TR. He used some impressive and delicate stems to get both blank sections and earn a free ascent. Uncharacteristically, I passed on a final TR, concerned that I might really tweak my back. It twinged a few times on the 50 minute hike out but did not get worse, fortunately.

In summary, this place is great. Although at low elevation (ca. 5100'), it is shady and cool. The overhanging wall has one face climb that is in the guide (12a, ***) and the numerous fixed ropes and new bolts hint at more routes to come. And we did not see or hear anyone all day. 5 miles down 108 on the way back home a mountain lion crossed the road in front of us. Magic.