Return-path: Received: from HUSC6 by Lbl.Bitnet via BITNET ; Sun, 6 Aug 89 12:02:24 PDT Received: From HUSC6(MAILER) by LBL with Jnet id 6066 for AGER@LBL; Sun, 6 Aug 89 12:02 PST Message-Id: <890806120224.2480017d@Csa2.LBL.Gov> Sender: MAILER@HUSC6.BITNET Received: by husc6.harvard.edu; Sun, 6 Aug 89 15:00:48 EDT Date: Sun, 6 Aug 89 15:00:48 EDT From: MAILER-DAEMON@husc6.BITNET (Mail Delivery Subsystem) Subject: Returned mail: Cannot send message for 3 days To: ager@Lbl.BITNET ----- Transcript of session follows ----- 421 zariski.ether-mailer... Deferred: Connection timed out during user open with zariski.harvard.edu ----- Unsent message follows ----- Received: from Csa3.LBL.Gov by Csa2.LBL.Gov with DECNET ; Thu, 3 Aug 89 11:20:34 PDT Date: Thu, 3 Aug 89 11:19:58 PDT From: ager@Lbl.Bitnet (Joel Ager) Message-Id: <890803111942.24a0a291@Csa3.LBL.Gov> Subject: You can yank me... To: tspintl@suwatson.bitnet, palais%csam.lbl.gov%Csa3.LBL.Gov@Lbl.Bitnet, zografou%lnf.infn.it@iboinfn.bitnet, imbrie@huma1.bitnet, dtd%genie.gene.com%Csa3.LBL.Gov@Lbl.Bitnet, burleson%monk%boulder.colorado.edu%Csa3.LBL.Gov@Lbl.Bitnet and you can CRANK me, but don't you go wake up and SPANK (thank, actually) me... Paraphrased words to a classic Ted Nugent (known to some as the poet of noise) song. Dear rock gang: Clint and I went to Tahoe last weekend to check out the fables "crack in the chimney behind Space Walk." We did Space Truckin' (10a) to warmup and get to the top of the cliff. While we were at first disappointed as the crack appeared pretty short, upon further inspection we realized the crack extended all the way to the bottom of the crevice (20' wide) and that there was another possible line directly opposite. Since we could examine the crack from about every angle and because it was free of dirt (given the gardening projects Clint usually suggests, this was a pleasant surprise), a rap inspection was not necessary. Clint offered to take the lead! of this first. We rapped from our inspection chockstone at half height in the chimney and we were off! The first 1/2 of the route was 10c finger and hand - and vertical - both of us had our feet blow on the first moves - but held on, the jams were so bomber. Clint cruised, made his way to the little overlap 10' from the top, the obvious crux, placed a TCU and tried to pull over - but couldn't reach the jam and ran out of gas. While hanging, he noticed that if a loose rock was removed from a horizontal crack under the roof, one might be able to hand jam...It was getting cold in the bottom of the chasm (my sunbeam had gone away) so I lowered Clint to the chock stone and came up. clint climbed back up to the roof and tried to manover the rock out - but it was a little bit too big. It was my idea to use the hammer and after some not so gentle persuasion, the loose rock was cleared and the route looked more possible. I tied in and climbed to the roof but couldn't get the right combo of horizontal hand jams to launch over. I dogged and finally figured out the move, cranked the move with a long stretch to a finger lock placed a nut and lowered off. Clint pulled the rope and red/pink pointed. I Tr'd. Now if that one went... The one opposite had a crack for about 2/3 of the way, then just blank corners so we rigged the toprope. I lowered clint into the void. The lower section was classic 10c hand/finger/ square edges with a small roof with a big reach and rounded hold - clint paused at the resting stance below the blank section. Nothing to do but lieback the black corners - he made some progress but it was a dead-end. Hang, try again, try face climbing to the right on tinies, it was looking grim. Then Clint leaned out left and found a small edge - it was just enough to make the blank liebacks go and he got higher - to a rounded jug below the final lunge - 5.12??? He lowered off and it was my turn. I got the lower part - not smooth - and with running beta launched into the lieback sequence - to my amazement it went, I reached the rounded jug static with a knee scum, left hand to a 2 finger crystal, the final ledge looking a long ways away... and my feet blew, ripping the tip on my left forefinger. Almost! I praticed the layback moves and worked out a way to so a smaller lunge at the end - down for a rest. Clint went to the bottom and tried to do the whole route several times - but the cumlative effects of the previous route and the massive effort necessary to get the sequence took its toll. He got to the last move a few times, but didn't quite have the juice. I tied on, stepped on at the 1/2 way point, and performed the carefully rehearshed moves - lieback, left to the sharp hold, feet up, little slap, little stem, r foot to knob, playful slap, r. foot up, undercling, hook knee, rounded jug, rearrange feet, big lunge. I lowered sucking wind. clint tried again, no go. I declined another go, fearing injury. So the routes are Crank 11b and Spank 11d (?!). Neither of us got Spank from the ground, although we both think it's one of the hardest things we've ever done. Spank could be a lead with 2 or so rap bolts, but it will be very hard to let go to clip them - the moves are all lunges to sideclings. we'll see if we go back. Compared to the valley, Tahoe seems way underdeveloped - probably a lot of good new firsts out there. sunday we started slowly, climbed at the leap. the whole family went up to the lower buttress and I led Hemmeroids in Flight (10c), glad to find a way to traverse around a nasty overhanging flare, fearing damage to my lycra. It was windy so Renata couldn't sleep, Nancy felt sick, so they went down. The lower buttress seems to have a lot of flared crack routes. We went to the Dear John Wall, Yaniro land. It was great. clint led the 10a start to God of thunder, which turned out to have a 10+ bad size section at the top, which we avoided by traversing to the 5.9 corner. We set the TR on the 11b crack. It was great, Cookie like in quality, vertical, a flared hands section at the bottom (crux) then bomber hands and fingers and dynos to jugs at the end. and leadable. We didn't try the 12c to the right or the 11b fist/ow/2 tiered roof on the second pitch. I think I'll be back to this wall. We finished the day by toproping on the campground boulders and talking to Steve (NItro) Petro and his son - they're out for Grand Illusion. Unreported from weekend before last. One day at Donnner Summit, Snowshed Wall. Airial (11b arete, TR in guidebook, now bolted) Clint 1 fall (to get sequence), moi flash, Nancy did all the moves, alice most moves. Peter Principle, 11a crack, me one fall, one hand lead, Clint TR flash, me TR no falls. 10b Crack next to arete - Clint lead, I follow. We're eyeing another bolted arete to the right reputed to be slightly harder. Nice rock, my first DS visit. Joel  Return-path: Received: from ames.arc.nasa.gov by LBL.Gov with INTERNET ; Mon, 23 Oct 89 16:08:51 PDT Received: from csa3.lbl.gov by ames.arc.nasa.gov (5.61/1.2); Mon, 23 Oct 89 16:09:24 -0700 Date: Mon, 23 Oct 89 16:09:24 -0700 From: Mail Delivery Subsystem Subject: Returned mail: Service unavailable Message-Id: <8910232309.AA19978@ames.arc.nasa.gov> To: ----- Transcript of session follows ----- Your mail to hammer%gal.span@io.arc.nasa.gov cannot be delivered because the IO mail gateway has been shut down. Try the address: instead. 554 ... Service unavailable ----- Unsent message follows ----- Received: from csa3.lbl.gov by ames.arc.nasa.gov (5.61/1.2); Mon, 23 Oct 89 16:09:24 -0700 Date: Mon, 23 Oct 89 16:03:08 PDT From: ager@Csa3.LBL.Gov (Joel Ager) Message-Id: <891023160308.22a09967@Csa3.LBL.Gov> Subject: Earthquake To: tspintl%suwatson.bitnet@Csa3.LBL.Gov, palais@csam.lbl.gov, zografou%lnf.infn.it%iboinfn.bitnet@Csa3.LBL.Gov, imbrie%huma1.bitnet@Csa3.LBL.Gov, dtd@genie.gene.com, burleson%monk@boulder.colorado.edu, alice_fischer-colbrie%10%hp1900@hplabs.hp.com, l.lizdavis@hamlet.stanford.edu, tdreier%snll-arpagw.llnl.gov@lll-lcc.llnl.gov, t13%dhdurz1.bitnet@Csa3.LBL.Gov, turner%uorchem.bitnet@Csa3.LBL.Gov, caspar%jila.bitnet@Csa3.LBL.Gov, hammer%gal.span@io.arc.nasa.gov, burkhack%colorado.bitnet@Csa3.LBL.Gov, k28%dhdurz1.bitnet@Csa3.LBL.Gov, simon%supgmbh.uucp@Csa3.LBL.Gov, manfred@saturn.ucsc.edu, llevin%scu.bitnet@Csa3.LBL.Gov, loucks@hokulea.hig.hawaii.edu Dear Everyone I know on Bitnet: I survived last Tuesday's quake as did everyone I know. Although we got a good shaking here at the lab (0.25 mi from the *Hayward* fault), nothing broke, including the brand new 2 page Mac screen and the new 386. Our optical table was so bomber that we took data the next day with no alignment necessary! I was not so lucky in trying to fly to LA that night - although I was able to detour around the blown section of 880, no planes had landed so none went out - I left instead on Wed. and made it to Pasadena for half of the afternoon sessions and, of course, for my talk on Thursday. I visited San Diego over the weekend and got to see the Charger lose to the Giants. Cheers, Joel P.S. I just got back this morning - the plane blew the approach 2 straight times in heavy turbulence and fog - thought I was going to lose my breakfast! Enough non-rock climbing excitement already!