Thug heaven: Rumney

I left SFO at midnight and arrived in Manchester, NH at 10:18 am on
Sunday morning after stops in Chicago and Burlington.  Paul Milde
picked me up and we were at the Rumney cliffs at noon.  It had
rained heavily on Saturday, but we were lucky and the sun was
out.  We warmed up by TR'ing the Black Jack Crack (10b/c finger
and thin hand, 30') and a steep bucketed face to its right (10a/b).
The rock is a funny schist that fractures in such a way to make
incut buckets.  Having heard from a local that Techo-Surfing was
runout and involved (gasp) natural pro, we hiked up a steep
hillside to the Bonsai Crag and I led Peer Pressure (10c/d).  It
follows a leaning corner and has nice stretches to buckets on
overhanging rock and 6 bolts and 1 pin in 45'.  Locals
attribute the pro density to its having been put up on aid.
There are some sport test pieces on this crag: a 13a thin crack
to the left and a 12b overhanging arete (Social Outcast) to the
right.  Next up was a nameless 5.10 which wound through a 
few tiers of overhanging rock.  It took Paul and I a few tries
to find the correct route - locals clued us in.  Just as I pulled
onto the top and tied off the belay tree I got the feeling that
something was going to happen - 10 s later it began to hail!  I
desperately tried to set up a belay under the overhang while all
the other climbers sat it out comfortably under the protection
of the overhanging walls.  I succeeded just as the hail stopped;
Paul followed in sunshine.  We finished up at the 5.8 crag -
we note that the 5.11- in the new Webster guide is now harder
due to a broken hold (stumped us).  The 2 5.10's on the left
side were nice although I did snap a hold at one point and
take a big TR swing.  conclusion: definately worth a visit
or two.

Gunks:  after touring southern NH on Paul's Suzuki, I took
the limo to Boston and picked up a rental car and drove
with Dan Nyugen to New Paultz.  The rain stopped in the
early morning - sunny day.  No warmup, Dan jumped right
on Persistant (11c) and RP'ed in a powerful effort, including
kicking out his (stopper) pro just before the pod at midheight.
I cranked the boulder problem start 1st try (thanks Bob) but
ran out of gas just before the pod.  Dan then got Resistoflex
(11d) on his ca. third attempt and I climbed up near the crux (all
TR).  I led Stannard's Roof (5.10), placing 4 friends in its
15' horizontal length.  Still stoked, we visited the Near Trapps
and Dan gave Kansas City a try (12a-12c?), but a difficult move
halfway out stopped him.  I tried to lead Coex (10+) but
was confused at the crux and ended up trying to dog Fly Again, a
harder variation.  Dan led through and I got it on TR.  Classic.

Wednesday we went for Matinee - the undercling was wet - I backed
off and Dan led.  funny, neither of us could figure out how
guys grab the lip like in the pictures.  Maybe 10c to undercling
the whole thing.  After lots of set-up attempts (but no falls) by
both of us, Dan got the second pitch with a quick reach.  I wasn't
close on the lunge - this is a hard pitch!  Double issima is an
old vendetta and it's unfortunately going to stay that way.  I
got a few feet higher but it's runout up there and there's only
one fixed pin left (rusty).  I consoled myself by soloing High E
and then we packed our aching bodies into the car and headed
back to boston.

Arches:  Thursday night.  Now that I find I can climb up these
things there's a new game to play - climbing the "real" arches
with one leg dangling.  Dan almost got one this way, I struggled.

Connecticutt:  I met Ken Nichols Friday morning near East Peak.  
There's now a Meriden city policeman assigned full time to 
the park and break-ins and drunken parties at the tower are
less common.  Despite my apprehension, climbing with Ken was
lots of fun and I didn't spill the beans on my ethical
trangressions - he didn't ask.  I started by leading Mindbender at Cathole
(9/9+ CDS, Connecticutt Decimal system, add two letter grades
to get YDS).  Not even a sandbag, Ken made up the rack with
just what I needed and I danced over a few juggy roofs.
We then drove up to East Peak and set the TR on Dol Goldur (11c
YDS).  I made a few attempts and got up to the second hard
part about 30' up.  Ken climbed up and down it and then walked
Volcanic Eruption (12b YDS) to its left.  I redeemed myself
by flashing Superstructure (10+ CDS), the right arete of Squirrel
Cage on TR with running beta.  I then led Thor's Hammer (5.9)
to finish up the afternoon and drove back to Boston in time
to make the rehearsal dinner at 7 pm.