Goat Rock - Clint's brief moment of glory   11/20/88

OK, I know you guys must be tired of these boring climbing reports, with
their dismal non-exploits.  However, I am pleased (perhaps too pleased) to
inform you that I've finally done my "first" 5.12.  Hopefully it's not my
last, but only time will tell.  Went to Goat/Castle Rock (local sandstone
crag) Sunday with Joel, Nancy, and Alice.  The sun broke through the misty
clouds just as we were setting up the rope.  After cranking the usual routes
and even failing again on one of them, I tried the left side of the big
overhang again.  Last time I was there, Yabo said it was a 5.12a done first
in 1975 by Ray Campana (OK, I've never heard of him either).  This time I
inspected the holds closely by doing a variation just to the left, and I found
a foothold which looked useful.  After cranking the standard jugs/huecos
through the roof, I made the now standard blind reach to the pair of finger
holds.  With my fingernails cut this time, they didn't feel quite so insecure.
I stemmed far left to the new foothold, but it didn't seem to help until my
right shoulder touched the dihedral to my right.  Then I realized I could
partially release my tired fingers, and I reached up and locked onto a bomber
jug!  TUBING strikes again!!!  Of course, it would be only fair to mention
that I have tried this route at least 10 times spread out over 3-4 visits
to the rock over a few years.  I had made pullups onto the finger holds
without using the left foothold, but I could not let go of either hand to
lunge high enough (since my feet were essentially dangling under the roof.
Well, so much for my moment of fame.  See you in Joshua Tree, Bob.  Maybe
see you over Christmas, John?

Clint