Chuck Carlson (Berkeley climber and Toni Pfau's Nose partner)
headed towards the Sierras last Friday night, planning on
a Tuolumne weekend.  The hunters camped at the Hetch-Hetchy spot
warned us of the poor weather forecast and 30 s outside the
car at the Low Profile turnout proved it - too cold!  It was
then that the hidden agenda was revealed - sport climbing
at Owens River Gorge!  Chuck was game, so we drove over Tioga
Pass as clouds closed in and after braving a light rain on
395, there we were.  It turns out to be unnecessary to descend
the loose pumice slopes, as a paved road accesses the gorge
bottom from the South Parking Lot.  Chuck began by leading
Coming Attractions, 9 ***, in a light rain.  We both led Held
Over 10c ** after hiding from the rain under an overhang.  
We wandered up-canyon, and Chuck led Grey Scale 10a *** with
one fall.  Ok, time for something harder.  I started up Love
Stinks (11a, 120 ft., 12 bolts, ***) but had to lower from
just before the crux when the rain began.  We sat it out, I
pulled my rope and got the (rain delayed) flash when the rain 
stopped.  This route
is really super with many feet of overhanging jug pulling; I
think it deserves that 4th star that would grant it "mega-classic"
status.  Chuck got it on TR, only his 2nd 11.  We wanted to get
one more route in, but there we parties on most of the classics,
so we hiked out.  The word is out on the gorge and we saw a lot
of mixed European parties that could have only assembled 
themselves in Camp 4 -  the rude lycra combinations and smell of
cigarettes of the Germans on a nearby route when I was on 
Love Stinks really brought back memories of the Frankenjura.  

After spending the night at a nice campsite up in the
National Forest we came back for more.  Chuck warmed up by
leading Wowie Zowie (10a ***).  I then flashed If I Told You
I'd Have to Kill You (10d ***), blowing past the crux with a
big lunge.  Chuck got the move static after a couple of tries.
Up the canyon to the Solarium, passing many parties in the
Stonewall area with ghetto blasters and attitudes - a check of
the cars in the parking lot confirmed my suspicion that most
were from the LA area.  I started up Cobra (11b ***) as clouds
gathered.  I fell once trying to hang on to clip the second
bolt - it began to rain, but I stayed dry... very overhanging.
On my second try I got the clip and cranked a couple of thin
moves to jugs, but faded at the 4th bolt, grabbing the draw
just as my fingers uncurled, thus avoiding a big air voyage.
The slab above was wet so I rapped, vowing to return.  We
hiked up to our canyon high point, the Narrows East area, and
Chuck led the 5 bolt arete of Mal a la Gorge (10c **), taking
one fall working out the delicate balance moves.  On the way
back we investigated an old mine shaft and I found a pair
of Vuarnets (damn, not my prescription!).  After watching a
couple of guys flail I got really stoked, and just as (welcome)
clouds obscured the sun, I red pointed Cobra, letting out the
standard whoop of victory.  Chuck couldn't get a hard move
down low on TR and I blew it as well on my victory lap and
did a bit of batmanning before yarding jugs, etc.

The score:  both Saturday and Sunday 11 stars bagged, with many more
classics to do.  I'll be back...

Joel

P.S.  Tioga Pass looked just like a Christmas card Sunday night with
its fresh covering of snow.  Driving time was 5 hrs. 10 min to
Berkeley.