Ho Boy!

Best make that "Ho men."  Last Saturday Jeff Kropp and I went
up to Middle Cathedral and pulled off the coveted (by some) second
ascent (and first continuous free) ascent of the Ho Chi Minh
Trail (V, 10c).  We managed to get an early start and were on the route at
7 am.  I had promised Jeff warm May weather (had pulled out
old email records to prove that the FFA was done in May!) and the
sun was out as I led the first pitch, using the "McMillan"
start to avoid the DNB's 5.8 chimney and reach the top of
the pedestal in one pitch.  We swung leads all the way up and
were able to save time by running many of the pitches together.  
Jeff earned a few "burly points" by straightening 
out the pitch above the mantle (5.10,R).  Unfortunately, the
weather started to deteriorate as soon as we started the Ho
proper.  El Cap, Half Dome, and Sentinel were soon shrouded in
mist and we broke out our raincoats and polypro, which were to
remain on for the rest of the day.  Jeff, who dislikes cold,
pulled out his secret weapon, which was donning millermitts to
hold heat packs against the back of his hands (need a burly point
ruling on this).  Things were looking real bad as I was showered
with granular snow following the double crack/evil tree
pitch just before the Turret.  But the snow did not persist as
I wallowed up the 5.7 ow pitch to the Turret.  "Ho-boy!"  We ate 
lunch (1:30) facing the friendlier direction (east) and decided to press
on.  The two 5.10 pitches fell easily, but it started to really
rain as we reached the base of the 19th pitch (5.8, loose).  Jeff
was eying the raps, but I guess I really wanted this one, so I
took the rack and headed up.  There were a few dicey moments
liebacking on wet lichen (5.8, my butt!), but I managed to find the key 
traverses and thankfully hopped over onto a boulder strewn ledge.
Yikes! - the big blocks started to slide! - I arrested myself by diving into
a chimney and clutching a chockstone while wildly pedaling this
vertical talus.  Jeff watched a "V-8 engine sized" block
plunge out of the mist and hit the Turret 200' below, breaking
up into hundreds of pieces.  Fortunately, only some scratches 
on my shins and a big adrenaline rush.  The rest of the pitch
went no problem, I noticed that it had stopped raining, Jeff
led the 5.7 last pitch and we were on top - 5 pm.  "Ho-ho-ho!"
The raps were fine - Greg and Elliott had left a trail of red 1"
runners below the Turret in Feb., thanks - and we were back on the
ground at 7:15 pm.  

Sunday Jeff was feeling good, but I was pretty burned.  He led the new
arete start to Trough of Justice (10d?) and the thin crack above
(2nd pitch of People's Court, 10d+).  I did some hanging.  We
moved onto the Mojo Tooth.  I managed to lead Euellogy (10a) and
Jeff flashed the left-most (easiest?) sport route on the upper 
tier (11d, 4 bolts, and totally wild).  He finished 
the day on the 10d arete (some natural
gear) on the lower tier to the right of New Traditionalists.  I followed
on my last reserves - felt a lot like 5.11.

Joel