Joshua Tree   11/21-27/88

J Tree was rather cold and windy for a couple of days, but we did manage
to get some climbs in.  The approach was a killer -- starting the 8 hour
drive at 8pm due to Nancy's working schedule (her class meets at 4-5pm in
Berkeley).  The weather was sunny (vs. rain in San Francisco) but windy.
Nancy and I did Sail Away 5.8 **** and Sphincter Quits 5.9 *** in the sun
before Joel met up with us (he got a ride to JT from Bob).  Illusion
Dweller was too windy, so we went to TR Hot Rocks 5.11b ***** .  None of
us made it, although Bob and I got pretty high (short dynos between finger
locks with little for the feet was my technique).  Bob and Joel saved us
a campsite at Jumbo Rocks.  Day 2 was cold and cloudy, so we (Clint, Joel
and Nancy) went down to Indian Cove (lower elevation and protected from
wind).  Nancy went for a hike up Rattlesnake Canyon (nice watercourses),
and Joel made it past the steep part of Silent Scream 5.10a before it
started sprinkling (it snowed up in the higher part of JT).  Day 3 was
still windy and cold, but with some sun, so we joined forces with Phyllis
to do toprope routes in Echo Cove -- short finger crack on a boulder,
Hot Knife 5.10d stem which only I failed on (Nancy made it past the crux
but couldn't pull up), and Big Moe 5.11a which only I succeeded on (major
reach move, then wild overhanging jugs).  Day 4 was much improved.  First
Joel tried Imaginary Voyage 5.10d, which starts with an overhanging layback
and then takes a 20' roof via a hand traverse on a flake.  It was too shady
and windy for the thin hand size crack, so we bailed.  We went over to
Rockwell 41C 5.10d which takes a wild diagonal stepped dike up a vertical and
overhanging wall.  I led the first part, which involved very strenuous one arm
dynos and cranks with little help from the feet, but there was only one
more bolt, and it looked like a fall from the top crux would be pretty
scary.  So I downclimbed to the side, and rigged a TR.  I TR'd it fine,
and Joel tried it (the second crux) but couldn't crank the moves.  Nancy was
snapping many photos, and there was also a Bosch-equipped team trying to put
up a new route to the left.  After this, Joel led me up Illusion Dweller
5.10a/c and Nancy did Face It 5.10a face near Peyote Cracks with Bob.  Bob
left that night, so Nancy left the morning of Day 5 with Phyllis and company
so that Joel could get a last day of climbing in with me.  I led Clean and
Jerk 5.10b **** very nice.  By this time my arms were getting pretty sore
(especially after Rockwell 41C).  Joel led No Calculators Allowed 5.10a, shady
but with a nice overhanging finish, and we finished by TRing Brown 25 5.11a,
nice solid and sunny (Joel took a few hangs).  Just the right length of trip --
could climb almost all out and only get sore on the last day or two.

Clint + Nancy