After his big adventure on Waddington, I think Wayne was focused
on long routes, but Greg Murphy's bogus finger and Chan's previous
plans, coupled with the generally hot weather, led to the backup
plan - climbing with me.

Well, we didn't do *all* short routes.  Saturday we warmed up
on Shithooks (10b) and Memo ... (10d).  Wayne led and I, of course,
could not do the latter.  Then we hiked up to Oz, and with a 
single rope, a minimal rack, and the shirt (and a small pack
with shoes and water) on our back went for Oz.  Swinging leads,
all was fine until the final corner pitch.  I had belayed at
its base - chopped anchors - so Wayne could enjoy the its full
length.  However, just above the (should have been chopped) 2
bolt anchor 1/2 way up, Wayne thought better of going for it
with just a single #1.5 and #1 friend.  I climbed through and finished
the corner (10c), lowering once to backclean the #1.  Once on top,
we continued our alpine adventure, hiking over to Hobbit Book and
cruising - 5.7 and cool - I had never done this one.  The descent
including a dip in Lake of the Domes - fabulous.

Dinner at Lembert involved some of the usual suspects - Alan, Bonnie,
Chan, Phyllis, and an unusually mellow Bacchus.  Sunday was another
fine day.  We thrashed around but finally found the Laserblade below
Phobos/Deimos.  It look rad, so Wayne headed up another route on the
same boulder.  He did the sport/hang/climb thing  - another party
(Tom Addison and partner) "worked in" and told us it was Quick
Release, 12a.  Wayne nearly pinkpointed, I got up to the crux,
all the time enjoying the shade.  Looking for more of it,
we hiked down and Wayne led some 11+ to the left of the Ugly Arete
  Extensive trickery - climbing the tree to clip the
first bolt and lassooing the cold shut anchors from the last
bolt.  On the other hand, Wayne did free the thin start which I
could not do following.  This left the tr on the UA (12a) - the start,
even with the chipped hold, is desperate.  There is a tree, Wayne
used it and worked up, etc.  I did some yarding, but did experience
most of the moves.  We finished up with a tr of Black Angel (lap count
WB 3, JA 1) and a swim in Tenaya.

Next week I am headed to Boston for 2 week conference + travel, and hope to
visit some of those West MA crags Wayne talked about.

Joel