Meadows:  Medlicott,  Valley:  Bircheff-Williams   8/25-26/90

Due to threatening T-storms, we went to Yosemite instead of Donner (we =
Clint+Nancy+Joel+Renata).  The sky was clear so we headed for Medlicott
Dome in the Meadows, although it was cool, breezy, and eventually cloudy.
Nancy led a 9-bolt 5.11a? route below Shambles.  The crux start had tiny
sharp holds -- Nancy and I took a fall, while Joel yarded on the bolt, with his
standard proclamation that he doesn't do slabs.  The upper crux is 5.10c small
knobs and sloping horizontal edges.  We then moved the rope to the next anchor
left and TRed Dazed and Confused, a 2-bolt 5.11 (really more like 5.10b I
thought).  Nancy also TRed the 5.11c to its left, with a fall when her start
didn't join the regular route.  Joel and I then went up for another try at the
first pitch of Shipoopi, 5.11b and the clouds promptly came in and made it look
like last time.  Joel got more gear in at the lip of the roof this time, but
couldn't find a way to crank the move, so he came down and I led it.  Above
the roof, it's easy jugs to the next bolt, then smaller knobs (sort of like
East Cottage but more exposed and on the edge of a rounded buttress).  When
following, Joel was able to find a different sequence which worked for him.
Due to clouds, lateness, Nancy+Renata's departure, we'll have to come back
later to try further pitches.

Sunday:  Joel led Bircheff-Williams 5.11b but got stopped at the final crux.
Nancy managed it after a fall by liebacking the thin pin scars!  ("Bob's way").
I did it after a fall by liebacking the arete.  In the afternoon, Joel led
Ten Years After 5.10d (near Lower Yosemite Fall).  Many interesting 5.10 pin
scar fingerlock moves.  Perfect temperatures (not too hot for once).