Pinnacles:  Resurrection Wall, Desperado Chute-Out  2/10-11/90

Saturday:  did Resurrection Wall 5.11b with Joel.  The first pitch was quite
scary due to 5.9 runouts and 5.10 R climbing due to slick knobs crossing the
wet waterchute.  Joel moaned and slipped slightly but fortunately didn't
take the big ride.  The second pitch was classic up the old bolt ladder, but
it was more like 5.11b than 5.10d (in 1974 I think 5.10d was the rating of
Crack-a-go-go, too -- now 5.11c).  I had to clip the 4th bold on aid from the
3rd as the free moves went right at the overhang (crux), then encountered
several more challenging + tricky sections above.  Wow, what a pitch.  Joel
also had to hang at the crux, when following.  We also did the 3rd (5.7 R)
before rapping (and adding 3/8" bolts to the last 2 belays).

Sunday:  Desperado Chute-Out 5.10c with Hubert Shen and Robert Hollywood.
The first 12' is the crux (was rated 5.9), with a bolt at the *top* of this
section.  I barely clipped it and had to grab to get the rope in, but Robert
freed it after one fall (Hubert aided also).  Apparently I missed a hangerless
1/4" bolt partway up, which would have helped considerably.  I think holds have
broken off, because it's definitely not 5.9.  Unfortunately, the rest of the
route is 5.5/5.6 and loose (4 pitches total), but the weather was sunny and
nice.  At the short rappel, I added a good 3/8" bolt, because the only anchor
was a 1.5'x1.5'x4" block which shifted back and forth by 6"!  We had intended
to do the direct variation, but it did not appear to really be above the rap
(no bolts, loose, and 80 degrees).  We did find one of the 2 bolts on it
later, but there was no belay anchor and the rock was loose, so we did the
normal Derringer finish (good rock).