Pinnacles:  Condor Gulch, Fringe Dweller   2/2/92
Subject:      Gang of Three at Pinnacles

Chris Donahue called me on Saturday night and joined me and Joel for some
east side action.  We warmed up in Condor Gulch, where Joel led a 3 bolt
5.10a route we had noticed last week (first big rock uphill on R, before
Hippo).  A steep light wall with pockets and edges, slightly crumbly in
spots, and aluminum hangers.  Next Joel led The Big Pucker 5.10d, while I
left Chris to belay and fraternized with various characters (watched Dave
redpoint Zippetydodah -- his first 5.12 lead, in spite of recently broken
holds at the crux!)  On to the chilly N/W side of the Monolith, where
Joel flashed Fringe Dweller 5.11a.  Well-frosted Chris had some trouble and I
skipped it entirely (upon hearing that the fingerholds were very small).
Joel pinkpointed Piton Traverse Direct 5.11b (near flash, but fell near top --
doing it when the holds are not already chalked is hard).  Chris got 1/2 of
it; then TRed Rocket in my Pocket 5.10d.  I TRed PTD, but I have done it before
(when I tried it in June, I flailed badly due to my injured finger).  Jim drew
a small crowd for his strong redpoint attempts on Ranger Bolts 5.13a (2 falls
in am, 3 in pm) -- the rarely attempted upper part looks very intense; quite
the ultimate Pinnacles testpiece (long lunge midway from ridiculous holds,
no rests past 1/3 height, and a tricky 5.12 bulge at the top).  I spotted
Jim for a TR go at Hot Lava Lucy (the other 5.13); the crux is not quite solved
but he cruised the enjoyable upper section.  The Gang of Three then reconvened
in Palo Alto for pizza and birthday cake.  I got the Castle Crags guide (near
Shasta), if anyone is looking for a copy.