Pinnacles:   2/17/92
Subject: standard deluge at Pinnacles

On Monday, Joel, Suzette (Joel's girlfriend), and I headed for the Pinnacles
in spite of the wet weather.  On the way there, I explained to Suzette that
only the most desperate climbers visit the Pinnacles, due to the loose rock
and nearly year-round climbing season in Yosemite, etc.  Later, to my suprise,
we ran into Brian Cox there with Charlie Schreck.  I thought Brian would never
go to the Pinnacles, but I guess Charlie has been a bad influence on him (they
have even visited the "looser" West Side!).

I led the warm-up route, Broken Arrow 5.10b, and we all bagged rays before the
darker clouds moved in.  I felt a little scared on this route, which is normal,
so I think I'm back in leading shape.  It's rated 5.10d in the guide, and I
struggled on it 2 years ago, but it's much easier than the other 5.10ds.
Joel then had a look at Trial (5.12c in guide, but Jim said it's only 5.11d).
He had trouble with the move past the first bolt, and it hurt his finger a bit,
so we'll be back later.  We waited awhile for Mammary Pump 5.11a to clear up;
then Joel got his "overdue" redpoint (he did not clip the 3rd bolt).
On to the Monolith after inspecting the waterfalls in the Fern Chamber, where
kids were taking showers, and on Heat Seeking Moisture Missile.
Joel led Richnak's Revenge 5.11a (he hadn't led it before), and we set up a
toprope on Cataract Corner.  While belaying, I overheard Ranger Dan and Sam
Davidson (of the Access Fund) discuss:
 - rap bolted route right of Hot Lava Lucy (according to Dan, it violates the
   "new route over the trail" rule, so it will probably be removed).  Strictly
   speaking, it's not directly over the trail, but it's very close (5 feet?).
   I don't know who bolted the route, but it might have been Ed Barry, who's
   the only person besides me who's shown interest in the line.
 - David Rubine's letter signed by current first ascent activists, supporting
   "ground-up" (vs. rappel) bolting, and possibly threatening to remove new
   rap bolts.  David told me he would send me a copy, but I still haven't seen
   it.  David wanted to have the letter posted on the climber bulletin board,
   but Dan seems at least partially opposed, because there's no park service
   policy against rap bolts.
So much for politics.  As I was fingering the initial holds, the clouds cut
loose, and Joel and Suzette hid under the rope tarp while I scurried for the
overhanging Druid wall.  No doubt it was nature's punishment, as I had strapped
on my chalk bag for the first time this year.  So I "self-pullied" my way up
the toprope with help from Joel, in the downpour, which naturally stopped as
soon as I summitted.  Too bad we didn't get to try it, as the cataract was
truly roaring below (the reservoir was full and a two-tone green and white
stream was rushing out of the upper spillway).  We spent some time examining
my latest fantasy project "Stone Curtain", and although we were humbled by
its difficulty, on the way home it again seemed possible (on toprope).
My original plan was to bolt it as an aid ladder to bypass the blank section
near the ground, but on TR I believe we can swing onto the rock from an
adjacent boulder to just above the blank part.