Pinnacles:  Love Handles   9/29/91
Subject:      Pinnacles shade festival

I made a Pinnacles trip on Saturday with Joel and Phyllis.  The ride was fun,
up to 119 mph in the "bitchin' sled" (Mitsubishi Eclipse GS turbo).  It was
uncrowded, being hot, but we survived by staying in the shade.  I was the
"designated leader", since Joel hadn't climbed for awhile, and Phyllis is not
used to the loose rock.  We did 8 routes:
The Wet Kiss 5.9       a dry warmup.
Stupendous Man 5.10a   I avoided the initial crux roof by going right.
Mammary Pump 5.11a/b   (toprope)  Phyllis nearly flashed without beta (1 hang).
                       While setting up the tr, my ancient seat harness finally
                       broke, so I'll have break down and use my new one.  My
                       right ring finger tendon is still injured, hence the tr.
Cantaloupe Death 5.10c  Wild initial power move for Phyllis.  Note: the largest
                        hold on neighboring Hot Lava Lucy broke off this spring
                        ; it must be a real 5.13 now.
Richnak's Revenge 5.11a  Phyllis took a hang at the lip (by now the heat was
                         slowing us down a bit).
POD 5.10d/5.11a        (toprope)  Have to do it on every trip.
Hawaiian Noises 5.10b  (toprope)  Don't know why Rubine rates it 5.10d.
Love Handles 5.10d     I got too flamed getting to the last bolt, and I had to
                       quickly downclimb and hang.  Phyllis couldn't crank the
                       reach move below (no footholds below chest level mean
                       that footwork can't compensate).  Joel cranked it with
                       a traverse at the end; he was the only one to free all
                       the routes in spite of his long layoff.