Smith Rock:  Moons of Pluto, Toxic   10/12-14/91

Joel and I spent 3 days clipping bolts at Smith Rock last weekend (postponed
from Memorial Day due to bad weather then).  We stayed mostly in the shade
except in the morning.  The new climber's camp with showers promised in March
exists now (still $2), so most climbers were looking pretty presentable (with
the exception of myself, of course).  Very few people or fixed draws on the
hard routes, presumably due to the hot weather.

Saturday:
  Fred on Air 5.10d - C led after clipping 2 bolts on License to Bolt (some
    bumblies were dogging on Fred, unable to get past the first bolt and losing
    much finger skin, but not giving up until I started up 6' to the right).
    Good idea, as License to Bolt was too hard for a warmup.  J also led w/ a
    short fall.
  License to Bolt 5.11b - C tr, J tr w/ hang.  Nice route w/ 2 good cruxes.
  Blue Light Special 5.11b - C led, J followed w/ hang.  Neat undercling and
    roof w/ short dynos and jugs.
  More Sandi than Kevin 5.11c - J led w/ hangs, C followed w/ hangs.  Rated
    5.10d in guide; presumably something broke off leaving blank section.
  Walking While Intoxicated 5.10c - J led, C followed.

Sunday:
  Moondance 5.11b - C attempted lead, but bailed at first bolt (after clipping
    it with a cheater stick) -- too thin / hard on fingers.
  Trivial Pursuit 5.10d - C bails again at first bolt (had TRed this before,
    but too runout / hard on fingers).
  Headless Horseman 5.10c/d - J led, C followed.  Long and airy.
  Reason to Be 5.11a - C led to 2nd bolt, J pulled rope and led to 3rd bolt,
    then took falls.  Neat sharp arete that J could probably get if fresh.
  Moons of Pluto 5.10c - J led, C followed w/ hang (got gripped on thin knob
    footing!).  Long, sustained, and airy arete, w/ nice crux at top before
    slab.  Small knobs like Tuolumne.
  Bad Moon Rising 5.11b - J TRed all but 12' of contrived start, w/ hangs at
    roof.  C TRed, deviating more from bolts, and missing 5.11 start and 5.11+
    direct roof (went over right side instead).  This version has a 5.10d crux
    face just under roof.

Monday
  Overboard 5.11a/b - C led w/ hangs, J followed w/ 2 hangs.  Placed a #1.5
    Friend at crux in violation of sport climbing principles, but did it
    "modern" style by yarding on the quickdraw below to place it.  Great flake
    buckets to a technical leaning crux.
  Powder in the Nose 5.10d - J led w/ hangs, C followed w/ hangs.  Nice small
    knobs.  Stick clip of first bolt.
  Hippos on Ice 5.10b/c - C led w/ fall (grab and lower, actually), J followed.
    Interesting short crux.  Stick clip of first bolt.
  Toxic 5.11b - J nearly flashed, falling from just below the anchors.  C
    followed w/ hang (tried to set up dyno like last time to please the crowd,
    but finger worries as usual provided the excuse for no launch).  A great
    classic jug-pocket haul through space to finish off the trip!