Eagle Lake: Spacewalk arete,  Phantom: Candyman  8/10-11/90

Took a Friday-Saturday weekend with Joel, as he had to leave for a conference
on Sunday.  This was our "new routes only" weekend.
Friday:  Eagle Lake Cliff.  Got surprisingly close to TRing the arete left of
Spacewalk (about 5.12a).  After initial attempts with 10+ hangs apiece, I got
up it with only 3 hangs.  The arete requires constant laybacking or pinching,
with the upper half crux on tiny sideclings and smears.  Decided it was out of
our league to lead (can't imaging letting go in upper half to clip), and TRing
free might require several more tries.  In the afternoon we tried a roof
(traverse along lip on spaced holds) to arete left of the Criterion.  Seems to
require punishing one-arm dynos, so we didn't try too hard on it, fearing
injury.  Would go for someone who's real strong, though.
Saturday:  Phantom Spires (warm).  Did a new route on short arete above Lean
and Mean/Over Easy (Middle Spire).  2 bolts on lead, one added afterwards on
rap (we also cleaned and TRed it first).  5.9, no name yet.  Hiked around,
looking for more new routes, but only found short/extremely hard stuff.