Perfect Vision - second effort  4/15-16/89

After 2 days of work last weekend, our new route is looking very good -- I told
Joel that it was probably the best new route I'd ever be able to do.  After the
initial 5.9 pitch, Joel got a cool pitch which starts with a steep 5.10c move
on the arete, then a traverse around the arete to a steep face with crack pro
and sloping knobs (plus an undercling move to keep things interesting).  It
finishes with a steep pull to the belay.  The next pitch, which passes "The
Barrier", saw me doing a short lunge to a large chickenhead so I could put a
big sling on an old knifeblade.  Then a 5.11a reach move right from the belay
grabs a sharp flake/knob, a .75" TCU goes in, and another traverse move on a
gold dike brings one to a lunge for a dike sloper.  By this time, one has
traversed along the lip of a roof!  After hooking my thigh on another dike hold
I could get a 3.5 Friend in.  This took a few tries on Saturday and Sunday to
free -- at first we thought the initial reach move might be impossible.
Then I put a thin sling over a sharp horn and sunk a bolt.  A 5.10c move brings
one to a great long section of 5.8 knobs with crack pro.  Joel took the next
pitch, which started with a tough 5.10b/c sloping holds section, followed by a
5.7 dihedral to a big ledge.  There was an exciting moment when his foothold,
a medium-sized rectangular block, detached, but fortunately he was grabbing
large holds at the time.  Above, it looks like we can traverse back to the
arete and go up a thin crack.  Then one last pitch should take us up the exit
cracks on the right wall of the Braille Book.
     Definitely a classic in the making; we are not sure of a route name at the
moment.

Clint