Unreported from almost 2 weeks ago:

When Chanlee Harrel called me about climbing in the Valley I quickly
agreed.  After all, Don Snyder had told me that Chan was "out of shape" on
a recent Canyonlands trip.  Since I view myself as not exactly in top form
right now, I figured we'd be matched.  That is, until, Chan
informed me that Don's "out of shape" comment referred to hanging
once or twice following Quarter of a Man (11d/12a), Coyne Crack (11d),
etc. and that Don had, for some reason, not mentioned ascents of the Primrose 
Dihedrals, Moses, etc.  Uh-oh.

So we went in search of the "pump" on classic routes.
Chan led Hardd (11a) in the sun, showing a good go-for-it attitude by
whipping with his hands on the belay ledge.  I flailed following the
upper finger crack.  Seeking shade and new territory, I led the
first pitch of Anathema? (10b) to gain the ledge.  Chan led Jardine's
Hand (11a) , a nice corner viewable from Catchy Corner.  I guess the reason the
route is not popular is that there is some 5.9 grunge and ow in the 1st 
70' - however, the last 60' is a classic lb/stem corner with a surprise
thin crux (Chan fell!).  Recommended.  Finished the day with Catchy 
and the sport route to the right, Chan leading.

So I still had my dignity, but not for long.  Sunday we went for the
Folly - the whole Folly.  I led the 1st/2nd pitch in sun, Chan the 3rd, the
long "Good Book" pitch.  The fun began with Chan doing the direct 4th, 
taking nice falls
into air trying the clip the pin from wild lb stances.  My experience with
the 5th epitomizes Valley climbing, wide hands/fist to hands, overhanging,
"10b".  The truth comes quickly - mentally, physically, I am not even close.
I lower off, whimpering, Chan powers it and the 6th, motoring efficiently
up the low angle ow past old bolts with bail slings.  The summit is small
and guano covered - not a big thrill.

I had not climbed in the valley for a year and was last bagging real
cracks in fall of 90.  I had grown cuticles, gotten soft, fooled myself
with the numerical illusions of sport climbing.  You can run, but you
cannot hide.

Joel