Yosemite:  Likely Lads go for 5.11 Arch and Cookie action  5/20-21/89

Joel and I, feeling in pretty good shape, decided to try some cracks.
On Saturday we did the last 3 pitches of New Dimensions, skipping the first
since we've both had hard times with that pitch (and my left ankle was not
100%).  The 2 5.10a pitches were physical and not too enjoyable, due to wide
and flaring sections.  We both pulled on a Friend on our leads -- mine was on
pitch 3 when I couldn't get my foot to stick high enough on the entrance move
to a wide section.  Later on the pitch I had to give one scream of frustration
as my feet skidded one more time from the flaring corner -- it's a drag to only
be able to use one side of your body for upward progress when the crack is such
a nice size in the back.  Joel got the last pitch (5.11a), and was doing fine
until the width narrowed from hands for a few moves of 1.25" before the final
fingerlocks.  The result was some hang time which was not sufficient to relieve
the titanic pump, but he did manage the last moves free.  I barely managed it
on TR, with worries of insufficient foot rubber as I frantically stemmed right
at the top.  Then we had to walk off because the rap anchor at the top was a
bit too dubious.
    Wanting to grab some knobs, we went over to the Knobby Wall
(115 degrees -- overhanging) to TR the 5.11c rightmost line.  It starts with
a long stretch from an undercling which Joel lunged but couldn't hit.  I got it
statically while he did battle with the mosquitoes, but then I ran out of
strength on poor holds 6' from the top (70% done).  I dogged out the remaining
moves (by feeling all the holds to determine which were the good ones; then I
went down to my high point and cranked the moves to the top.  I was unable to
do the route from the bottom up, though -- I had less power at the undercling
and barely hung on after dynoing it and missing slightly.  I used my previous
sequence, but ran out of strength after making all but the grab for the lip.
I got the second-to-last hold with 3 fingertips (enough to hang on but not pull
up...).  We left, figuring further tries would surely cause injury!
     On Sunday we went for Butterfingers (5.11a), via Bev's Tower (5.10a) and
Wheat Thin (5.10b).  I took the 5.10 leads to save Joel for the last pitch --
I found them still quite demanding, as I got gripped in spite of having led
them before.  We got to watch 2 other parties lead Wheat Thin, including a
German who placed a few dubious wires low and then announced "I am shitting in
my trousers!"  The other leader gave audible screams of terror.  Joel cruised
Butterfingers, and I found it easier this time (with a TR and without a tape
job rolling up on the back of my hand...).

Clint