"Double nickels on the dime"
(Trucker slang for a speed limit of 55 on I-10)

Chanlee Harrel and I went for long routes in Yosemite last
weekend.  First to fall was the Chouinard-Herbert on 
Sentinel (V, 11c).  This route has three hard pitches (10c,11b,11a, and
11c) spaced by sections of easy "motor-boating."  We simoed the
first three - wake up call was my lead of the 5th - the 10c
which I got free.  Chan took some falls on the 11b lb - got it
off the hang.  Smooth sailing took us to the 11a corner.  I
stemmed up pretty high, using the deep pin scars, but ended
up grabbing some gear.  Chan followed free.  I relaxed as
best I could at the hanging belay, amusing myself by imaging
the story behind the ripped aluminum bolt hanger (initials
"YC") that formed half of the anchor, as Chan did battle
with the dreaded Afro-Cuban flakes.  He took some nice
falls trying to free the thin above the roof, finally 
worked out the pro, but did a little grabbing to free it.
I grabbed shamelessly - the last pitches were cruised.
7 hours climbing, 1400' elevation gain, courtesy of Chan's
altimeter watch.  The descent is no joy, but we enjoyed drinking 
beer and watching a slower party aid the A-C flakes back at the
car.

We stumbled upon Greg Murphy and company at the Church Bowl -
in between slandering Don Snyder heavily, Greg related the
tale of how Elliott, diced above the ACF roof and about to blow the
clip, took the 30 footer into space rather than grab the biner.  Oh well.

"Who are you, Captain Carboload?," commented Greg as he noticed
I was downing burritos and potatoes at an alarming rate.
Here's why.   Sunday we went for the DNB (V, 10b).  Guess I had 
always wondered about those chimney pitches the Ho was designed
to avoid.  The face climbing down low went ok, but the chimneys
up high took their toll.  While not the "full-body experience"
of, say, the Steck-Salathe, those upper pitches are still pretty
demanding; my right elbow and left knee are raw from the endless
right-side in flare.  I felt more like a supertanker than an
energetic motor boat, but we slogged to the top just the same.
(8 hours, 1600').  We rapped the Ho - 13 raps (we counted) - Chan 
suggests doubling the slings at the stations, 
but otherwise approved of the anchors.
I snuck a sip from the stashed water at the Turret (we baked 
most of the day) - no ill effects yet.

So, two grade V's in a weekend - but I realize the speed limit
on most of I-10 is now 65 (VI + V???) - no, no, not me.

Joel