I had another fine valley weekend with Joe Schiefman, self-described
"bourgeois climber."  We began on Saturday by braving the short,
but PO infested, approach to the Mojo Tooth.  I led Mighty Crunchy
(10d), sort of a minor classic with a short overhanging undercling
and finger crack section.  As Joe followed I engaged in my usual
occupation of daydreaming and looking for new lines.  It slowly
dawned on me that I wasn't the first to do this here.  There are
about 10(!) new bolted lines on this knobby cliff, all with 3/8"
rawl bolts and Metolious hangers.  Most follow thin crack lines or
steep corners.  Because of this I suspect most were put up on lead,
although the proximity of the bolts to cracks that would for sure
take RP's might cause a "traditionalist" (but not me) to question
their "validity."  They look to be in the 5.11 to 5.12 range and
are very safe.   There are two near Tongue and Groove, 4 on the 
upper tier to the right of Bad News Bombers, 2 on the steep wall
to the right of Mighty Crunchy, and 3 (at least) on the next
cliff to the right of the MT.  In fact as Joe and I walked the crag,
no sooner as we'd say "a route might go there" we'd see bolts.  Most
routes had fresh chalk and I'd say the development has been very
recent, perhaps within the last few weeks.

We then drove to the Bridalveil parking lot and began the approach
to the Watchtower.  However, as soon as I remarked that the 
forested slopes we were ascending were more casual than the talus
mentioned in the guide, we realized we were headed for Fifi
Buttress, far to the right of the Leaning Tower.  Crossing the
wet and slippery moss-coverd talus to regain the Watchtower
approach added a few more bruises to our shins.  We made it
up the 4th class pitch and got to scope The Thief (10d, classic
hands and fingers) but as soon as we uncoiled the ropes it began
to rain.  We descended and headed for the always dry Chapel
Wall where I led Gold Dust (10b+), finding that I could now
"tube" most of the crux and avoid some of the strenuous laybacking.
Saturday night we pulled into Jack and Chan(sp?)'s Upper river
site for our dose of noise and smoke.  They'd done the NE Buttress
of Higher.

On Sunday, we went to Reed's.  Joe warmed up by leading a 5.9 fist
crack (no name) to the right of Stone Groove.  It was pretty
sandy.  We then went for Cosmic Ray (11a).  Joe led the first pitch
(5.8) up some corners.  The second pitch start with some 
spooky climbing on blocks and decomposed corners (5.9 R) to gain
a stance beneath a roof.  The roof goes on finger jams and jugs 
and 40 ft. of classic finger crack on an 80 degree wall follows.
It's not too bad with slots in the crack and the odd chickenhead
for one's feet and really good locks and pro.  A bush move and
then 40 more feet of lower angle crack gains the 2 pin belay (needs
a bolt).  Joe followed with no problems.  The climb is worth
it, but the crack could use some gardening.  Joe then led Stone
Groove (10b).  However, as soon as I'd clipped the first bolt on
on Old 5.10 (10d face) I noticed that the next series of holds
were wet and it began to rain.  We packed it in and headed for
the Pizza Factory in Mariposa for the salad bar and big-screen 
ESPN.

Joel