It was looking pretty grim last week for finding a partner to
go to the Valley - various bogus plans were considered - biking,
hiking(!), going to the Pinnacles(!!)...  but Greg's call came Friday
morning - change of plans, he was now free to go!  We left at
6:20 am Saturday morning from Oakland and arrived at the Cookie 
parking area at 9:30am.  Greg has been experimenting with making 
coffee in various super-strong forms - we were both visibly shaking
after 2 big cups of "one part coffee, one part water." brew.

We charged across the river to Elephant Rock and jumped on Hot Line.
I led the 1st (10c), Greg cruised the thin hands on the 2nd (11c)
but couldn't quite get the dike traverse (12a) until he had rested
a bit on the rope.  I got the crack on TR but was not even close
on the traverse.  Greg raced up the 3rd (10b perfect hands) showing
some of that legendary speed.  After a quick discussion, we decided
to TR the crack that parallels the 3rd, heading straight up from
the 2nd pitch belay.  Various estimates had been made of its
difficulty ranging from 11+ to 12+ - we both TR'ed free at 11b/c.  When
cleaned it will be classic - a nice thin fingers start and
lots of finger and hand action (some overhanging!) up higher with
rests.  No dirt, just lots of lichen.  We then sprinted up the
4/5th pitch (5.9) and Greg tried the 11d thin hands roof variation,
managing to reopen an old gobie.  We then rapped down to the
top of Pink Dream and Greg tried to lead Nightmare continuation (11d) -
tips jams in a seam, palmy liebacking, and funk gear - backed off.  We then
rapped 60' down Fatal Mistake and I led its last pitch (11a thin),
taking one unexpected fall when a nice knob foothold blew.  The 10c
fist below looked wild.

We had dinner in El Cap Meadows with Alan McEwan and Bonnie, sampling
some excellent home brew, and watching a party on Mescalito climb long
into the night.  Breakfast involved the same crew plus Brian Cox,
Wes, Wags, and a host of other "sport campers."  So we got a 
late start (10:30) which we made up for in typical Greg fashion by
*running* up the Spires Gully, gunning for that coveted second ascent of
Perfect Vision.  So much has been written about this route - I'll
just mention the highlights.  I made several attempts to led the
Barrier pitch (11c) - very close but not quite.  Greg flashed and
raved.  Greg found the 5th (11a) somewhat awkward but flashed (of course).
I led the controversial 6th (11a arete).  I fell once (so still no
red point) and really had to keep it together to place the gear and
pull off the moves, fingertips and forearms fried from the pace of
the previous day and a half.  Greg says don't add bolts - out of
character with the rest of the route and would make the lead a
gift (trust me, it's no gift now).  Greg led the 7th (5.9, loose)
and was pretty concerned
when he broke a couple of footholds - he suggested the X rating
(or should this be NC-17?) and later admitted that he didn't
think I had it in me to lead this sort of thing.  Well, when I have to...
We got to the ground at 5 and Greg went off to solo the Braille
Book while I passed out from exhaustion.  We ran (of course) down the
gully, catching views of pink evening light on El Cap through yellow
leaves and reminiscing about New England.  On the way home as
I felt my forearms throb (I'm still pumped) Greg complained that he
couldn't stay longer ("I may still kill my boss") as he was
just getting warmed up.

Joel