Valley:  Little Wing, Five and Dime  10/14-15/89
Subject:      weakend

For various reasons we didn't get much done, but we tried.  Went to Little
Wing where Joel led Honor Thy Father 5.10c and Nancy followed.  Set up TR
on Gunks Revisited.  I tried a direct start but was hampered by tree, so
I tried traversing, but blew and got stuck in tree.  Broke limbs to free
the rope.  Got traverse and took a fall on top traverse (mono-doigt move)
before getting it.  Broke more limbs and cleaned flakes while being lowered.
Finally gave up the rope to Joel, who flashed, starting from right side.
I thought this start was 5.10d/5.11a, and top move was 5.11a (harder if you're
short like Kauk on FA -- they rated the top 5.11c).  Nancy tried but blew on
start (no swing, we used second rope from side!).  Then I got almost all of
the direct start -- 5.11b reach/lieback, 5.11c 3' lunge on great Gunks incuts
(5 tries but didn't weight rope).  Couldn't do the last 3' traverse to flake;
I'm about 8" short on lunge.  May bolt it "True Gunk" and leave the last move
as a pendulum.
On Sunday we got a late start as I was scouring the base of El Cap for booty
(only found 1 biner).  Went to Five and Dime, what a sandbag!  Joel tried to
lead but had to aid 20' (heinous 1.25", more like 5.11b than 5.10d).  I didn't
even try to follow.  Then we scoped Reed's for new lines, but nothing looked
really feasible/desirable.  Used Joel's new Nikon binos for this and for
watching Greg Murphy / Alan x on their 2-day ascent of Zodiac (wow!).

Reported my new routes since 1987 to Climbing today -- 13 routes with Joel on
7, Dan on 3, and Bob on 2.  We're gonna be famous ... well, maybe.

Clint