Joe Schiefman and I went to the Valley last weekend.  Weather was
nice (shorts), almost too warm to climb in the sun.  Short days,
though, so no fooling around or warming up, we marched right up
to Tips (11d).  Joe had TR'd it earlier this year with Steve Petro
and Lisa Gnade, but couldn't lead it this time.   Hanging, etc., but
got to the belay.  We can all be heroes on TR.  After five or so
tries, I found a good sequence through the technical crux and it
was off to the races.  If there were only a handjam or even a 
foothold in the upper crack - but there's nada, just finger slots
and 80 degree rock - I blew just before the upper crux (11b), hung
twice and got to the belay.  Joe had a similar performance.  Where
am I going to find the juice for this one?  Late day, headed for
Short Circuit (11d).  Joe just missed leading it, so settled for
TR laps (lots of them).  I couldn't do the last move - oh well.
Six jovial characters showed and rode our TR well past dark, with
the aid of headlamps and encouragement from the crowd.  One dude
was climbing in Air Jordans resoled with Stealth (I am not making
this up) - he almost made it.  Maybe for my next pair.  Gobie score:
Joe - 7 major and countless minor ones; Joel - 1 big hole and a 
couple of dents.

Sunday, back for more.  I redpointed Leanie Meanie (11b) - I'd TR'd
it a couple of times in previous seasons.  Had to rest for a long
time in a marginal stem after the pumping start, but made it.  Ron 
Kauk and TM Herbert appeared in the talus just as I was lowering
off from the chockstone and in time to see Joe hang - oh well.  
"Ronnie" led Midterm (10a) and Joe talked a bit with TM, mostly
about Royal Robbins and his latest harangue in Rock and Ice - TM
says it's just that sport climbing took Royal by surprise and that
he's actually a "real square shooter."  TM was prepared because
"my son does that shit - I'd like to but I'm too old."  Joe
then led the 1st pitch of New Dimensions (10b).  I barely 
managed to follow as usual.  Late day, I raced up the burned
talus slope, rapped, and set up the big TR on Anticipation (11b).
This time, I got the move out of the rest (barely) but missed the
big reach - argh! - upper crack is still fun.  Joe had taped his
fingers to avoid further damage - I now count 2 big and 4 small
gobies on my digits.